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The Best Places To Escape Cooking For The Holidays in L.A.

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The Best Places To Escape Cooking For The Holidays in L.A.

The holidays can be filled with endless dinners, parties, and get together’s and by the time you have a moment to spare, the last thing you want to do is plan your own dinner, party, or get together. Luckily, Los Angeles is the perfect city to be in to escape cooking for the holidays. At any point during your hectic festive days, you can easily maneuver in these tasty spots for a little culinary, and let’s be honest mental and emotional, break before you have to run to your mother’s annual turkey curry buffet.

To help you out, read my latest dining guide for Trivago.

BREAKFAST:

Morning time is prime “me” time and there’s no better way to start the day off right than a delicious breakfast Downtown at the L.A. Chapter in the chic Ace Hotel. L.A. Chapter is by the same fabulous team behind my favorite brunch spot in Brooklyn, Five Leaves, and serves up incredibly flavorful dishes like the Moroccan egg scramble with housemade Merguez sausage, crushed avocado and a chickpea salad with a lot of kick, and the fluffiest ricotta pancakes, which are served with banana, berries, and a healthy scoop of honeycomb butter.

For a quick guilt-free/waistline friendly option, the rice bowl at Sqirl in Echo Park with Kokohu Rose brown rice, sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, special Sqirl hot sauce, black radish, French sheep feta and a poached egg will leave you fully energized and focused to conquer the day.

LUNCH:

Nothing beats a midday feast and lunch at Gjelina perfectly serves the purpose with its fresh California cuisine, including their celebrated pizzas, and gorgeous back patio. Delicious menu highlights include the housemade chorizo pizza with tomato, cream, fennel, chili and basil, grilled Kabocha squash with mint pesto and pomegranate, and braised pork meatballs with an addictive red wine tomato sauce. If you find yourself in need of a more central escape, then look no further than Ludo Lefebvre’s Petit Trois in West Hollywood. This intimate bistro (bar seating, no reservations, and credit card only) is an ode to classic French cuisine and bar à la carte dining in Paris. The entire concise menu—which includes one of the best escargot in Los Angeles, classic steak frites, and buttered brioche crumbed chicken leg—is a must-eat so make sure to have at least a couple of pals with you to share with! For a solo adventure, I like to head to Grand Central Market in Downtown L.A. and hop from vendor to vendor. There’s the all day breakfast sandwich at Eggslut that’s so incredible that people wait in line hours for, one of the best burgers and fries you will ever eat at Belcampo Meat Co., Valerie Confection’s flaky fleur de sel caramel croissants, and Better Booch’s inventive kombucha bar— and that’s only a smattering of GCM’s offerings.

DINNER:

Located in Koreatown’s trendy The Line Hotel, The Commissary was my favorite new restaurant of 2014. Roy Choi’s delicious venture is housed in a stunning greenhouse with a loving focus on locally grown vegetables and fruits. Every bite of the roasted carrots, French dip sandwich, sea bass with green peas, perfectly cooked scallops—seriously, I would recommend trying to order every item on the menu—will leave you wanting to come back each and every night. If you’re craving for innovative Italian food, I love Bestia. Located in the Arts District downtown in an industrial warehouse-like space that’s always packed with a fun crowd, Bestia’s menu is equally ambitious as it is creative. With a menu that doesn’t have a single dud, Bestia is ideal for a large group because it means you can order everything for the table—don’t miss out on the housemade salumi board, spicy ‘nduja pizza, and cavatelli alla norcina with black truffles. Lastly, for a cozy, homey vibe head to Son of Gun. You and your guests will feel like you’ve just stepped into an East coast fish house and although Son of a Gun caters mostly to the passionate seafood lover (don’t miss out on the shrimp toast sandwich, lobster roll, and smoked mahi fish dip), the fried chicken sandwich with pickle slaw and rooster hot-sauced aioli will leave your carnivorous side more than satisfied and eager

for a return visit.

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A Sicilian Roadtrip

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A Sicilian Roadtrip

 
Vucciria Market

Vucciria Market

A few weeks ago, I embarked on an impromptu road trip to Sicily (via Rome) and am still in a arancini haze as I type this back home. If you’ve already done the major Italian big hitters like Florence, Venice, and Rome or want to avoid the crammed summer tourist crowd, I highly recommend a trip to Sicily. The island itself is not very big so if you rent a car and have a week to spare you can experience three stunning seas (Mediterranean, Tyrrhenian and Ionian) by driving the circumference and at your own pace, take in the expansive vistas, numerous UNESCO sights, gorgeous beaches, and insanely fun nightlife… oh, and the food. The stomach-splitting/I probably came home 20 pounds heavier, and would do it all over again, comforting, delicious food.

Here is my Sicilian adventure in photos (basically, how I ate through the island and rolled back home):

After a quick flight from Rome to Palermo, we settled into our apartment near Piazza Paprieto. I loved peeking below the streets on our balcony and seeing the grittiness of the old buildings paired with beautiful flowers and greenery.

The view of the Cathedral from my bedroom.

The view of the Cathedral from my bedroom.

For our first dinner in Palermo, my friend Nancy and I hit Osteria dei Vespri in Piazza Croce. On top of the fresh red prawn pasta and dessert that we ordered (definitely get the cassatella which is warm silky ricotta in a pastry folded like an envelope), the restaurant treated us to a creamy goat cheese soufflé and a tiny mason jar that contained what appeared to be a shepherd's pie-like concoction to start and then a mandarin cream tart and an assortment of petit fours, all on the house (now, that's Sicilian hospitality) to end our incredible meal.

Just around the corner is Vucciria Market- a chill spot where people come to buy cheap drinks (2 Euros each) and enjoy them on the street while meeting new friends. On any given night, you might run into the most amazing woman who goes around taking party pics. She will also give you the best dance of your life. Here she is in mid-performance.

The next day, we hit up Bar Touring for their well-known arancine bomba. The classic arancini is basically ragu stuffed into a saffron-scented rice bomb that's breaded and fried into carb coma deliciousness. It's called bomba for a reason- it's about the size of my head,

Obviously, I didn't let that stop me from ordering my favorite - a brioche con gelato. Smooth fresh pistachio gelato stuffed into a hot brioche bun. 

Fully charged for Day 3, we hit the road early and headed east towards Catania, starting with Cefalu as the first destination.

Cefalu is a gorgeous seaside town and has several kickass beaches on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Unlike Palermo, you'll notice some tourists here and tons of cute souvenir and local food boutiques lining the streets and alleyways.

Back on the road, we continued east and hit Messina and stopped at a super sweet and quaint town called S. Stefano di Camastra that sold the most beautiful handcrafted ceramics. We had planned on just making a quick snack/washroom stop but was captured by the warmth and friendliness of the town that we stayed and met a sweet nonna who owned a gorgeous ceramic shop and took us down the street to show us her amazing workshop where her daughter also works, taking part in the family business.

With a bunch of cannoli's to tide us over, we continued on to Taormina which was, in my opinion, the most beautiful town we saw on our road trip. In Taormina, we got to see a wedding that ended with a burst of rainbow confetti as the sun was beginning to set.

In Taormina, you get to take in one of the three beautiful seas that surround Sicily, the cool Ionian Sea.

In Taormina, you get to take in one of the three beautiful seas that surround Sicily, the cool Ionian Sea.

By the time we got back on the road and arrived in Catania (if you have a few more hours/days to spare, stop at Acireale for a thermal spa treatment), it was well into the evening so we went straight to L'Ambasciata del Mare (just behind Piazza Duomo). If you're going to have a frutti di mare (fruit of the sea/assorted seafood pasta), this is the place to have it. With the fish market (A' Piscaria Mercato del Pesce) located right beside the restaurant in the early mornings, the seafood is as fresh as you can get it. We also had the calamari and the fried sardine that's breaded and stuffed with a creamy cheese goodness.

At this point it was about midnight and the last thing we wanted to do was hit the road again for another 3-4 hours to get back to our apartment in Palermo, so we signed up for a night at a hostel just a few minutes walk from the piazza called Agora Hostel, complete with a chill bar (below)

The intense A' Piscaria Mercato del Pesce is definitely a sight to see. On top of the wheeling and dealing of the fish, the surrounding area is filled with colourful local produce, meats and cheeses.

The highlight of the trip was the absolutely gorgeous drive from Catania (make sure to check out Mt Etna, an active volcano) to Palazzolo Acreide, a UNESCO town. Filled with vineyards, lemon and olive trees, ancient homes and structures, and countless livestock (in a span of an hour, we saw fields of donkeys, goats, cows, and sheep). 

Continuing on our UNESCO drive, we hit the white-washed walls of Ragusa.

As we finally pulled into Siracusa, it was around 9pm so we walked around the old port before stopping at a local roadside restaurant that had a couple of families enjoying fresh seafood and endless wine- the perfect spot for us to refuel before jumping back on the road.

For our final day in Sicily, we hit the road again, but this time headed west towards Sciacca. We were planning on getting some local thermal water and mud bath relief in Sciacca and Trapani but in our vacation mode didn't realize it was a Sunday, which meant all the spas were closed. No tears were shed though as Sciacca has an amazing beach, Sciacca Mare, to unwind on.

For our final feast, we binged at Santandrea in Palermo and made sure to order everything that contained Sicily's best ingredients- aubergine, tomatoes, lemons, sardine, swordfish, and chickpeas. Best dish of the trip was the pasta con le sarde- spaghetti with wild fennel, capers, raisins, and slow-cooked fresh sardines that melt into a ragu, that's then topped with fried breadcrumbs. It's not like any pasta you've ever tasted before.

To end the trip with a bang, we had to live up the Palermo specialty of fun outdoor drinking and hit Chiavettieri to start and then Garraffello (the other part of Vucciria) for a massive dance party. The perfect end to an expected trip to remember.

 

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Buenos Aires: Day 6

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Buenos Aires: Day 6

 
BREAKFAST AT HERNAN GIPPONI INSIDE FIERRO HOTEL

BREAKFAST AT HERNAN GIPPONI INSIDE FIERRO HOTEL

For our last two days in Buenos Aires, we stayed at the uber-sleek Fierro Hotel in Palermo Hollywood. Like the area it’s located in, Fierro is incredibly designed with super spacious rooms, a sauna, heated rooftop pool, and the most comfortable down-pillows (which rates high on my hotel must-haves). The complimentary breakfast is not like your average buffet of congealed eggs and stale danishes. At the Hernan Gipponi restaurant in Fierro, you get a full menu of freshly squeezed orange juice, celery & apple juice shot, tea, coffee, whipped yogurt foam (my new obsession) with frosted flakes, right out of the oven bread & buttery croissants, and eggs in any way you want it with bacon, brie, and hummus on toast. Of course, only I would be blown away by a complimentary breakfast, but seriously- dear hotels everywhere, take notice. A delicious breakfast with fresh ingredients matters.

VIEW OF THE GARDEN FROM INSIDE THE RESTAURANT

VIEW OF THE GARDEN FROM INSIDE THE RESTAURANT

THE SUPERIOR ROOM WITH THE BEST PILLOWS

THE SUPERIOR ROOM WITH THE BEST PILLOWS

THE GARDEN FROM OUR BALCONY

THE GARDEN FROM OUR BALCONY

SAUNA

SAUNA

HEATED ROOFTOP POOL

HEATED ROOFTOP POOL

VIEW OF PALERMO HOLLYWOOD FROM THE ROOF

VIEW OF PALERMO HOLLYWOOD FROM THE ROOF

After settling into Fierro and shopping around the outlet heaven that is Villa Crespo, here's how the rest of the day enfolded through more delicious food and good company:

PATATAS BRAVAS, GARLIC SHRIMP, AND FRIED CALAMARI

PATATAS BRAVAS, GARLIC SHRIMP, AND FRIED CALAMARI

PATATAS BRAVAS

PATATAS BRAVAS

SERRANO JAMON AND ANCHOVIES

SERRANO JAMON AND ANCHOVIES

THE INCREDIBLE FOOD AT AMAZING PRICES STREAK CONTINUES AT ITALIAN JOINT, IL BALLO DEL MATTONE

THE INCREDIBLE FOOD AT AMAZING PRICES STREAK CONTINUES AT ITALIAN JOINT, IL BALLO DEL MATTONE

HOMEMADE PASTA + BUENA ONDE = GOOD TIMES

HOMEMADE PASTA + BUENA ONDE = GOOD TIMES

HOW CAN YOU NOT LOVE A PLACE THAT GIVES YOU FREE BREAD AND PATE TO START?!

HOW CAN YOU NOT LOVE A PLACE THAT GIVES YOU FREE BREAD AND PATE TO START?!

AT CAFF IN ABASTO FOR THE LA YEGROS ALBUM RELEASE. PHOTOS BY MALEN URZI.

AT CAFF IN ABASTO FOR THE LA YEGROS ALBUM RELEASE. PHOTOS BY MALEN URZI.

DANCE PARTY

DANCE PARTY

AWESOME COSTUMES

AWESOME COSTUMES

OH LOOK, ANOTHER CAT... POST-SHOW DRINKS AT LA CASONA DE HUMAHUACA.

OH LOOK, ANOTHER CAT... POST-SHOW DRINKS AT LA CASONA DE HUMAHUACA.

FOR MORE ON BUENOS AIRES:                                                

 

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Buenos Aires: Day 5

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Buenos Aires: Day 5

 

JARDIN BOTANICO BY CARLOS THAYS

Here's Day 5 in Buenos Aires in pictures:

WINTER BLOOM AT JARDIN BOTANICO

ICE CREAM OBSESSED AT JAUJA (A PATAGONIAN BRAND). TRY THE MOUSSE DEL PILTRI AND CASSIS COMBO.

ENTRANCE TO THE EVITA MUSEUM IN RECOLETA

EVA PERON'S EXQUISITE STYLE IS SHOWCASED

CONSTITUCION NACIONAL JUSTICALISTA. GREAT FONT.

END OF EVITA MUSEUM. ALONG WITH AN INCREDIBLE STORY MADE ESPECIALLY INTENSE BY BEING HERE ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF PERON'S DEATH (JULY 26), THE DESIGN ELEMENTS HERE ARE SO INSPIRING.

THE LINE-UP AT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS FROM THE CROQUE MADAME PATIO.

AVOIDING ANY STRENUOUS ACTIVITY BY WAITING OUT THE LINE-UP AT THE DECORATIVE ARTS AT CROQUE MADAME.

CHEESY.

THE STUNNING FLORALIS GENERICA AT SUNSET.

SMALL SHARLENE, BIG MENU AT OSAKA.

RED LYCHEE MARTINI (MANGO VODKA, SAKE, LYCHEE JUICE, BERRIES).

TAKO ANTICHUCHOS (SUPER CHEWY GRILLED OCTOPUS, WOULDN'T RECOMMEND) AND KANI TAN (KING CRAB FILLED WITH PHILLY CREAM CHEESE- THERE IS A LOT OF CREAM CHEESE ON THE MENU WHICH I AM NOT A FAN OF BUT GOOD FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR A LITTLE AMERICAN INFLUENCE).

GRILLED SEAFOOD PLATE. AGAIN, PRETTY OVER-DONE, OVERLY SALTY AND CHEWY.

INDO SALMON CEVICHE (WITH CHILI JAM, LEMON, TOGARASHI, MANGO, AND COCONUT MILK)

DRINKS AT RIO CAFE IN PALERMO.

MAKING NEW FRIENDS WITH FELLOW-LIBRAS.

THE SCENE AT RIO CAFE.

 

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Buenos Aires: Day 4

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Buenos Aires: Day 4

 
PALERMO SOHO BEING PRETTY

PALERMO SOHO BEING PRETTY

On day 4, we finally headed to Soho (an easy 20 minute walk from our hotel, Palermo Place, in Hollywood) by going down Honduras, past the train tracks towards Thames, and a 360 around the district back to Honduras- a route worthy of the Olympics. Here’s my shopping map (just zoom into the Soho area). You'll notice many shops have quite the boho output (lots of lace, crochet, chiffon florals, and gems) which is not really my kind of thing but amidst the Anthropology-on-acid-type brands, I came across some incredible prints, chic footwear, and impressive statement jewelry. My fave shops in Soho: Tramando (fans of Phillip Lim will love), Pesqueira (very A.P.C.), Blackmamba (the BA Helmet Lang), Huija (quirky and vintage-inspired footwear), and Chico Ruiz (sexy and feminine footwear). Honorable mention: Patio del Liceo (it’s outside the heart of Soho on Sante Fe and Laprida but absolutely worth the venture to check out the books/clothes/records/galleries. Just hop on the good ol 152 bus).

Here's Day 4 in Buenos Aires in pictures:

BREAKFAST AT OUI OUI.

SO FRENCH IN BA.

SPEAKING OF FRENCH, THEIR TOAST WITH HONEY INSTEAD OF MAPLE SYRUP.

BEAUTIFUL GARDEN SHOP.

MISHMASH OF GRAFFITI EVERYWHERE.

MERCADO DE PULGAS = INTERIOR DECORATING HEAVEN.

WISH THERE WERE MORE PLACES LIKE MERCADO PULGAS FOR AFFORDABLE + UNIQUE FURNISHINGS...

LIKE THIS RUG I MASSIVELY REGRET NOT CONCOCTING A PLAN TO FLY BACK TO TORONTO WITH ME.

...AND THESE POTS. C'MON!

LUNCH BREAK AT MEDITERRANEAN/FRENCH SPOT CLUNY.

CRUNCHY SWEETBREADS TO START, THEN LAMB STUFFED BLACK SEPIA RAVIOLI.

SALMON W/ CASHEWS, CRUNCHY CASSAVA, WATERCRESS + RADISH SALAD,  AND SHRIMP SAFFRON SAUCE.

TRAMANDO.

PESQUEIRA.

COLORS ALONG PALERMO SOHO.

VITAL ICECREAM PITSTOP AT PERSICCO. GOT THE "CHOCUQUINNA."

A dulce de leche base with a bit of cream cheese with chunks of chocolate cookie/cake.

DINNER AT TEGUI (VEERS TOWARDS THE OVERPRICED/OVERRATED RANGE BUT AWESOME DESIGN). 

MINI PANCAKE APPS TO START.

A DELICIOUS WHIPPED GOAT CHEESE CONCOCTION.

VEAL WITH MASHED POTATOES AND A POACHED EGG. THE VEAL WAS  EXCEPTIONALLY COOKED, 90 PESOS (WHICH IS ABOUT $47).

FOR MORE ON BUENOS AIRES:                                                                                                                 

 

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Uruguay Break: Part 2

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Uruguay Break: Part 2

 

KITTY SECURITY AT LENTAS MARAVILLAS

By the time we pulled into the historic quarter in Colonia del Sacramento (a UNESCO world heritage site) it was almost 5pm, so we had about an hour to look around and take a leap back in time (P.S. you cannot take a bad vintage-inspired photo here) before witnessing the gorgeous sunset over the Rio de la Plata at the insanely delicious teahouse/cafe, Lentas Maravillas. If you get the chance to visit Colonia, save at least a few hours to chill at Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61) and enjoy the amazing view of the river and fantastic selection of books and magazines. 

Here’s Part 2 of our Uruguayan Break in pictures:

WALKING AROUND THE COBBLESTONE STREETS INCLUDING THE PRETTY CALLE DE LOS SUSPIROS 

ARTE MURAL TASCA DE S MIGUEL

THE LITTLE DOOR THROUGH BUEN SUSPIRO (PITSTOP FOR CHEESE, WINE, AND DULCE DE LECHE)

CALLE DE SAN FRANCISCO AT SUNSET

FARO (RESTORED 19TH CENTURY LIGHTHOUSE) BY THE RUINS OF CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO

THE CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE LIGHTHOUSE

MADE IT TO THE TOP, IN ALL MY GLORY

GORGEOUS SUNSET OF THE RIO DE LA PLATA

IF THE SNAILS DON'T CATCH YOUR EYE...

THE AMAZING VIEW OF THE SUNSET OVER RIO DE LA PLATA FROM INSIDE

LENTAS MARAVILLAS OWNER/COOK/BAKER/ALL-AROUND BADASS, MAGGIE

ALWAYS GETTING MY HOT CHOC FILL WHENEVER I CAN

MADE WITH LOVE: CHICKEN CURRY ON THE RIGHT, SMOKED SALMON ON THE LEFT

LENTAS MARAVILLAS IS ACTUALLY MAGGIE'S HOME THAT SHE OPENS UP TO LUCKY PEEPS LIKE ME 

THANKS SO MUCH TO MAGGIE FOR SHARING HER LOVELY HOME AND SENDING ME BACK TO B.A., FAT,  FULL, AND HAPPY! XO

For more information:

FOR MORE ON URUGUAY:

 

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Uruguay Break: Part 1

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Uruguay Break: Part 1

 

THE RESIDENT SHEEP AT FINCA PIEDRA

I wanted to make the most of our week in South America, so I booked a day-getaway to Uruguay (via an hour Buquebus ferry ride from Buenos Aires to Colonia) with The Wine Experience to a true estancia in the countryside of San Jose, called Finca Piedra. Dang, do I love my wine but in no way am I an aficionado in that realm, so knowing that Uruguay is busting through as the next big wine destination, I was stoked to find out (i.e. indulge in) what makes the wine here so special through a rad wine pro. Cue: Ryan Hamilton of The Wine Experience. This dude knows his vino and he’s been traveling in all parts of the world working the wine thing for years, so his stories are both crazy/hilarious and much more entertaining than some old stuck-up sommelier.

Ryan picked us up at the port in Colonia and we began our Countryside Adventure to the incredible Finca Piedra. Driving to San Jose, you are hit with a calmness from the stunning nature (the palm trees are shorter and much fuller than the ones you see in California) to the expansive fields filled with more cows, sheep, and horses you could ever imagine. Coming from a buzzing, smoggy city, of course, I’m highly amused by this and think it’s the best thing ever. 

As Ryan pulled into Finca Piedra, I was instantly taken aback by the stunning 1000 acres of vineyard and farm. Jason, who runs the estancia with his wife, welcomed us with big hugs and proudly showed us around the beautiful space. 

Here’s how the Countryside Adventure at Finca Piedra went down:

INSIDE THE FINCA PIEDRA RESTAURANT...

INFINITY POOL (THERE'S ALSO TENNIS, VOLLEYBALL, FISHING, AND GOLF IF YOU CAN'T SWIM LIKE ME).

SUPER CUTE ANIMAL FARM... 

WEEK OLD BABY RABBIT.

ENRICO, THE RESIDENT GAUCHO COOKING UP A URUGUAYAN BBQ (MORE MEAT!).

KEEP ON, KEEP ON EATING. SNACKS FOR THE WINE-TASTING.

JASON PRESENTS THE FIRST WINE...

A VIOGNIER... A FRESH PARTY WHITE.

RYAN AND JASON GIVE ME THE URUGUAYAN WINE 101.

THE LOCAL FAVE: TANNAT (A BOLD RED).

RYAN SCHOOLING ME ON WINE "LEGS" (I.E. ACIDITY). THE LONGER THE LEGS THE MORE ACIDITY. AIN'T THAT THE TRUTH.

BBQ OF SOUTH AFRICAN AND BLOOD SAUSAGES, CHICKEN, STEAK, AND RIBS WITH IN-HOUSE PRODUCED VEGGIES. 

FLAN WITH MORE CREAMY, STICKY DULCE DE LECHE. HAVE YET TO HAVE A SINGLE MEAL WITHOUT IT.

HOW REGAL IS MY HORSE FOR THE NEXT HOUR?

SOMEONE LOVES MY LEATHER BOOTS.

RIDING THROUGH 1000 ACRES OF GORGEOUS VINEYARD AND FARMLAND...

THE VINEYARDS ARE SLEEPING AROUND NOW, WITH A BIG GROWTH IN SEPT/OCT, HARVEST IN FEB/MAR.

My horseback riding session wrapped up at around 3pm and we made our heartfelt goodbyes to Finca Piedra (not before buying up some bottles of Tannat and olive oil). Ryan drove us back into Colonia del Sacramento where we could conquer the UNESCO quarter and watch the much talked about sunset over the Río de la Plata. 

Thanks so much to The Wine Experience for arranging the perfect Uruguayan introduction at Finca Piedra xx

If you're lucky and have a few more days in Uruguay, you can actually stay in Finca Piedra and take in the full agri/ecoturismo experience. For more information:

FOR MORE ON URUGUAY:

 

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Buenos Aires: Day 2

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Buenos Aires: Day 2

 
EL CAMINITO IN LA BOCA

EL CAMINITO IN LA BOCA

Having gotten a dose of rural Mataderos life on the first day, today’s dedicated to exploring the major historical districts- basically, setting the base before spending the rest of the week reaping the modern ways of wining, dining, and shopping in BA. Now old pals, Madi from BA Cultural Concierge met us at our hotel at Palermo Place and introduced us to the extensive bus system in Buenos Aires (there’s like 200 different buses). We started with the 152 bus on Sante Fe and Carranza and made our way to La Boca, home to the colourful El Caminto, then the 29 bus to San Telmo, walked all the way up Defensa to Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Ma-sho), and subte (subway) to the El Congreso building. If you start at 11:30am, expect to wrap around 5:30/6pm.

Here's Day 2 in Buenos Aires in pictures:

CUTE OVERLOAD: BREAKFAST AT PANI

READY TO FEAST

THE TOPPINGS TRIFECTA: DULCE DE LECHE, WHIPPED CREAM CHEESE, AND PASSION FRUIT JAM

DULCE DE LECHE SMOTHERED ON A SCONE? YES PLEASE.

WALKING THROUGH LA BOCA (AN ITALIAN BARRIO WHERE TANGO IN B.A. WAS BORN)

THE OLD PORT

MADE IT TO EL CAMINITO

MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES DEDICATED TO THE WORK OF BENITO QUINQUELA MARTIN

EL CAMINITO'S COLORFUL HOUSES ATTRACT HUNDREDS OF TOURISTS AND I CAN SEE WHY

CAMINITO'S CONCENTRATED COLORS ARE ACHIEVED WITH THICK BOAT PAINT

VINTAGE APARTMENT ABOVE EL PARAISO

CATS ON A TIN ROOF

OVERLOOKING EL PARAISO

PROA MUSEUM (MAKE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE UPSTAIRS CAFE)

UNINTENTIONAL ART INSTALLATION? CUTE OLD MAN WATCHING TV INSIDE A LIFE-SIZED DOLLHOUSE.

LA PERLA BAR

INSIDE LA PERLA

WELCOME TO SAN TELMO

BLACK CAT GRAFFITI IN SAN TELMO

SAN TELMO'S CONVERGENCE OF FRENCH AND ITALIAN ARCHITECTURAL INFLUENCES

MERCADO DE SAN TELMO

JUAN ANTONIO BUSCHIAZZO, THE ARCHITECT BEHIND MERCADO DE SAN TELMO

DOLLS, DOLLS, DOLLS

VERDULERIA FRUTERIA

VEGGIE RELIEF AT HIERBABUENA

MUSHROOM RISOTTO

WARM SPINACH SALAD WITH RED PEPPERS, EGGPLANT, SPROUTS

FARMACIA DE LA ESTRELLA OPEN SINCE 1894

BEAUTIFUL ORIGINAL FRESCOES ON THE CEILING INSIDE LA FARMACIA

PASAJE DE LA DEFENSA SIGN SHOWING THE GRIT OF BUENOS AIRES

AKA CASA CHORIZO (SAUSAGE HOUSE) BECAUSE OF ITS NARROWNESS

VINTAGE SHOP ON DEFENSA, EL BUEN ORDEN

THE HISTORIC CENTRE OF BUENOS AIRES, PLAZA DE MAYO

CASA ROSADA PRESIDENTIAL PALACE. EVA PERON REGALED THOUSANDS FROM THIS BALCONY.

HEAD SCARVES ON THE GROUND REPRESENT THE MADRES DE PLAZA DE MAYO

OLD SCHOOL WOODEN SUBWAY CARS MODERNIZED BY GRAFFITI OF TODAY

ALL ORIGINAL WOOD INTERIOR

PUT A BIRD ON IT... FLY-BY PHOTOBOMB AT AVENIDA 9 DE JULIO.

FOR THE LOVE OF STEAK. THE LINE-UP AT PARRILLA (PRONOUNCED PAR-EE-SHA) LA CABRERA.

MEAT LOVERS REJOICE, EVEN THE PLATES ARE COW-SHAPED.

GRILLED PROVELTA CHEESE WITH SUNDRIED TOMATOES

RIB EYE STEAK AND SHORT-RIBS (IN THE BKGD)

TOO... FULL... TO HOLD... HEAD UP.

For a packed day like this, I'd recommend BA Cultural Concierge - there are a ton of free and paid tour guides around Buenos Aires but I particularly liked the balance of Madi's insane knowledge and casualness. It felt more like discovering the city with a friend who happens to be a local, rather than a stiff city guide. We got along so well that aside from us both being around the same age (and Libras), we found we had a lot in common and actually did become friends. Love when that happens. 

For more information:

FOR MORE ON BUENOS AIRES:                             

 

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Buenos Aires: Day 1

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Buenos Aires: Day 1

 
EVEN THE KID GAUCHOS ARE BADASS IN MATADEROS, BUENOS AIRES

EVEN THE KID GAUCHOS ARE BADASS IN MATADEROS, BUENOS AIRES

After 17 hours of traveling on the red eye (with a connection via Atlanta on Delta with no mishaps… miracles do happen!), we arrived in Buenos Aires on an early Sunday morning and checked into Palermo Place. Located in the heart of trendy Palermo Hollywood (the epicenter of chic restaurants and bars) Palermo Place is a small boutique hotel with a big heart. Before I even flew over, the amazing front desk ladies, Florencia and Leticia, helped buy my ferry tickets to Uruguay because the Buquebus site wasn't recognizing my foreign credit card and booked us a really affordable and safe airport taxi. When we finally arrived, they greeted us with a huge welcome (the complimentary bottle of Patagonian wine and alfajores helped too). I'll take that over any 4-star chain any day.

FLORENCIA

FLORENCIA

LETICIA

LETICIA

Since it’s the only Sunday we’d be in town for, we hit up the incredible Feria de Mataderos with Madi Lang from BA Cultural Concierge. I enlisted the help of Madi for a historical day guide for the Monday around BA, but because she is such a sweetheart, she came and met us a day early at our hotel to take us to the massive weekly fair in Mataderos. About a half-hour (and 60 pesos) away from Hollywood, Mataderos which means slaughterhouse in Spanish, is a rural area known for its livestock and gauchos (cowboys). On Sundays, there are musical performances by locals and hundreds of food and craft stalls filled with one-of-a-kind jewelry, shoes, artwork, jams, cheeses… everything.

Be prepared to polish up on your Spanish before arriving. Most residents speak little English, so learn your essentials like "cuanto questa" (how much does this cost?), "donde esta el baño" (where is the bathroom?), "la cuenta, por favor" (the bill, please), "de nada" (thank you), and "perdon, hablas Ingles" (excuse me, do you speak English?), and if the menu doesn't offer an English side, you may have to sneak out your Spanish dictionary, or suck it up and be adventurous, you're on vacation! You just may end up ordering your new favorite dish.

Here's Day 1 in Buenos Aires in pictures:

BREAKFAST AT BARTOLA

BREAKFAST AT BARTOLA

ENTERING FERIA DE MATADEROS

ENTERING FERIA DE MATADEROS

ALL SMILES IN THE STALLS

ALL SMILES IN THE STALLS

THE OG GAUCHO

THE OG GAUCHO

FIRST STALL STOP: SHOES AT CALZADO

FIRST STALL STOP: SHOES AT CALZADO

HANDMADE LEATHER SANDALS

HANDMADE LEATHER SANDALS

TALKING MATE GOURDS

TALKING MATE GOURDS

"HOLD ME TIGHT AND SUCK ME SLOW"

"HOLD ME TIGHT AND SUCK ME SLOW"

IN THE HEART OF THE FAIR

IN THE HEART OF THE FAIR

RINGS ON RINGS ON RINGS. NO COMPLAINTS.

RINGS ON RINGS ON RINGS. NO COMPLAINTS.

REGRET NOT BUYING THIS ENTIRE SCARF RACK. GORGEOUS.

REGRET NOT BUYING THIS ENTIRE SCARF RACK. GORGEOUS.

LA POSTA DE LORENZO PULPERIA

LA POSTA DE LORENZO PULPERIA

READY FOR ALL THE EMPANADAS

READY FOR ALL THE EMPANADAS

LOCRA AND EMPANADA, MADE FRESH TO ORDER

LOCRA AND EMPANADA, MADE FRESH TO ORDER

LOCALS COME TO TANGO

LOCALS COME TO TANGO

TANGO ON THE STREETS

TANGO ON THE STREETS

MATE GOURD MAKING IS SERIOUS BUSINESS HERE

MATE GOURD MAKING IS SERIOUS BUSINESS HERE

MATADEROS MUSEUM TERRACE REALNESS

MATADEROS MUSEUM TERRACE REALNESS

FERIA DE MATADEROS AT SUNSET

FERIA DE MATADEROS AT SUNSET

MATE BREAK

MATE BREAK

MATE READY

MATE READY

MET THE MOST ADORABLE COUPLE, ANTONIO AND ANGELA, WHO TOLD US HOW THEY FELL IN LOVE AND MOVED TO BUENOS AIRES FROM ITALY...  HEART, MELTING.

MET THE MOST ADORABLE COUPLE, ANTONIO AND ANGELA, WHO TOLD US HOW THEY FELL IN LOVE AND MOVED TO BUENOS AIRES FROM ITALY...  HEART, MELTING.

BACK AT THE HOTEL: THE LADIES OF PALERMO PLACE DO IT BETTER

BACK AT THE HOTEL: THE LADIES OF PALERMO PLACE DO IT BETTER

DINNER AT OLSEN. 

DINNER AT OLSEN. 

FRESH BAGELS TO START IS ALWAYS A GOOD SIGN

FRESH BAGELS TO START IS ALWAYS A GOOD SIGN

PUMPKIN SOUP WITH GREEN APPLE COMPOTE AND BLUE CHEESE TOAST

PUMPKIN SOUP WITH GREEN APPLE COMPOTE AND BLUE CHEESE TOAST

SAUTEED CHICKEN LIVERS ON ENDIVE, SHALLOT CREAM AND SOURDOUGH TOAST

SAUTEED CHICKEN LIVERS ON ENDIVE, SHALLOT CREAM AND SOURDOUGH TOAST

 

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