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I met some incredible women in Hawaii who, to put it simply, get shit done, all the while being generously kind and absolutely inspiring. In Kona, where there is so much history to learn, things to discover, and activities to partake in, there was no shortage of said badass ladies. As action filled as Kona was, it was the women of the trip who really touched my heart and left me with the warmest sense of ohana (I told you, Hawaii has turned me into a total sap!).
There's nothing I love more than road tripping around a beautiful island - with stunning views of the land + water and all the delicious food stops along the drive, it's the best way to get up close and local. On Hawaii Island, we got to cover the top 180 of the island going north-west from Hilo to Kona.
I always had a feeling that Hawaii would be a magical place, which is a big reason why I've always wanted to visit, and there really is no better way to get a sense of what that magic is all about than a trek through Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Words cannot express the out of worldness that is hiking through, and on top of, a continuously erupting volcano. We started at 2:30pm, continued through sunset to pitch darkness (except for the glow coming from Kīlauea's active lava flow), while going through six different climates (rain, sun, dry, humid, cold, you name it, we felt it), which changes the color of the hardened lava from bronze to silver in a second. 12.4 miles later and it still feels unreal.
Read my latest article “ROAD-TRIPPING ACROSS ISTRIA: THE LAND OF TRUFFLES” on Travel & Style.
Like Oprah (don’t we all wish we could start every sentence this way), I have a major love affair with the truffle and have always wanted to have a try at hunting this coveted culinary delicacy, and like Oprah, I recently got to check this off my bucket list on a road trip across the heart of Istria in the Croatian peninsula to Karlić Tartufi. Istria’s phenomenal cuisine draws in food lovers near and far—it’s not unusual for inhabitants in neighboring Italy and Slovenia to make the two and half hour drive to indulge in a meal rich in local Istrian truffles and make it back home before bedtime, cravings satisfied; possibly in more ways than one, as truffles are known to be quite the aphrodisiac.
Istrian Truffles 101
White truffles (Tuber Magnatum) are in season between mid-September and early October until mid-December, and considered the most rare of the bunch, fetching close to $4000 a pound. Compared to that, the $1200-ish a pound price tag for the black variety, aka the summer truffle, is merely chunk change. So, it’s no wonder that the white truffle is lovingly referred to as “Istrian gold” here; a nickname that was birthed in 1999 when a nearly 2 1/2-pound white truffle was found in the precious grey soil of the thick Buzet forests near the Mirna river valley by Zigante Tartufi.
Arrival at Karlić Tartufi
Although you can stay at the Karlić estate in the gorgeous Villa Maslina, I drove in from Rovinj, my home base for the week, and was met by the lovely Mrs. Radmila Karlić, who grew up hunting truffles with her father, Ivan. Ivan established the family’s successful truffle business in 1966 and the Karlić’s have been non-stop since.
Radmilla starts the three-hour truffle tour with delicious shots of welcome grappa and then, an insane offering of truffle cheeses, salami and pâtés, before delving into a quick session on how to cook her famous soft scrambled eggs with black truffles, which of course you get to binge on afterwards accompanied by a selection of white Malvasia and red Teran. With full truffle inspiration under our belt and in our stomachs, my small group of fellow Tuber lovers and I headed to the bottom of the estate to the forests with Radmila’s 22 year old son, the namesake of her father, Ivan, a third generation truffle hunter who at only 14 years old found a 200 gram “Joker” truffle with the family’s star dog, Blackie.
The Hunt
With the help of three trained and adorable truffle hunting dogs, we briskly walked through the woods in hopes of finding a truffle and as Ivan revealed, “the most important thing is to have very good dogs. You can have the best forest in the world and not find truffles, if you don’t have very good dogs.” Knowing the extremely tight competition of truffle hunting—I had read about truffle “mafias” poisoning other family’s dogs—I asked Ivan if he had any first-hand experiences of the dangers of the trade. “When you go to one forest and then another forest, some people get jealous because they think you’re getting too many truffles, like a few years ago, they slit other people’s tires… But recently, no, because you have to have a license to truffle hunt here and the license is about 200 Euros, so you don’t want to risk losing your license. In our forest, everybody knows everybody, so there’s no bad business but I heard in France, truffle hunters shoot other truffle hunters when they try to go to a village where they think there are more truffles.” So the key to keeping your truffle stash abundant? “When you find a truffle you don’t put it in the news. You must be ‘shhh.’ Why? Because if other people hear you find big truffle in which forest, then they will come to same forest. You wait ‘til end of season, then you say, ‘I found this truffle.’”
The Rewards
Luckily for us we didn’t have to deflect any competitors during this hunting session—the dogs excitedly uncovered two large red truffles, which are unfortunately inedible. From Ivan’s hushed “shoo shoo” in repetitive singsong to encourage the dogs to roam and sniff, to the instant adrenaline hit that’d come when it seemed like a treasure was about to be unearthed, it was nonetheless an absolutely incredible experience to see the art of the truffle hunt. Like the loving dishes that are cooked from the truffles at Karlić, there is so much love and commitment poured into the dedicated hunt that provides the truffles as well.
Extras
On the drive back to Rovinj, there are a ton of delicious pit stops to be made, road signs with marked oil mills and wine cellars making it pretty easy to keep your stomach full. My favorites stops were an enlightening olive oil tasting at the renowned Ipša estate (for the past five years, Flos Olei, a prestigious Italian guide to the best in olive oils, ranked Ipša the second best extra-virgin olive oil in the world), a visit to the god father of the biggest white truffle in the Guinness World Records, Zigante Tartufi, to buy some local truffle honey, jams and spreads for gifts, and a fascinating wine tasting at the gorgeous Kozlovic winery in Buje, just 10 minutes from the picturesque fairytale-like streets of Grožnjan. Once you’ve hit all the essential pit stops, you will inevitably need to end the day with a satisfying dinner. Super close to Kozlovic, I loved stopping by Stari podrum for what was my biggest feast of the entire trip. Expect rustic generous portions of home cooked goodness like buttery potato rösti, creamy truffle pastas and local Istrian beef cooked to perfection by a loving mother and daughter duo.
Now, what are you waiting for, go check that truffle box off your bucket list.
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
BREAKFAST AT HERNAN GIPPONI INSIDE FIERRO HOTEL
For our last two days in Buenos Aires, we stayed at the uber-sleek Fierro Hotel in Palermo Hollywood. Like the area it’s located in, Fierro is incredibly designed with super spacious rooms, a sauna, heated rooftop pool, and the most comfortable down-pillows (which rates high on my hotel must-haves). The complimentary breakfast is not like your average buffet of congealed eggs and stale danishes. At the Hernan Gipponi restaurant in Fierro, you get a full menu of freshly squeezed orange juice, celery & apple juice shot, tea, coffee, whipped yogurt foam (my new obsession) with frosted flakes, right out of the oven bread & buttery croissants, and eggs in any way you want it with bacon, brie, and hummus on toast. Of course, only I would be blown away by a complimentary breakfast, but seriously- dear hotels everywhere, take notice. A delicious breakfast with fresh ingredients matters.
VIEW OF THE GARDEN FROM INSIDE THE RESTAURANT
THE SUPERIOR ROOM WITH THE BEST PILLOWS
THE GARDEN FROM OUR BALCONY
SAUNA
HEATED ROOFTOP POOL
VIEW OF PALERMO HOLLYWOOD FROM THE ROOF
After settling into Fierro and shopping around the outlet heaven that is Villa Crespo, here's how the rest of the day enfolded through more delicious food and good company:
THE INTERIOR OF LA ESPERANZA DE LOS ASCURRA
PATATAS BRAVAS, GARLIC SHRIMP, AND FRIED CALAMARI
PATATAS BRAVAS
SERRANO JAMON AND ANCHOVIES
THE INCREDIBLE FOOD AT AMAZING PRICES STREAK CONTINUES AT ITALIAN JOINT, IL BALLO DEL MATTONE
HOMEMADE PASTA + BUENA ONDE = GOOD TIMES
HOW CAN YOU NOT LOVE A PLACE THAT GIVES YOU FREE BREAD AND PATE TO START?!
AT CAFF IN ABASTO FOR THE LA YEGROS ALBUM RELEASE. PHOTOS BY MALEN URZI.
DANCE PARTY
AWESOME COSTUMES
OH LOOK, ANOTHER CAT... POST-SHOW DRINKS AT LA CASONA DE HUMAHUACA.
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JARDIN BOTANICO BY CARLOS THAYS
Here's Day 5 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
WINTER BLOOM AT JARDIN BOTANICO
ICE CREAM OBSESSED AT JAUJA (A PATAGONIAN BRAND). TRY THE MOUSSE DEL PILTRI AND CASSIS COMBO.
ENTRANCE TO THE EVITA MUSEUM IN RECOLETA
EVA PERON'S EXQUISITE STYLE IS SHOWCASED
CONSTITUCION NACIONAL JUSTICALISTA. GREAT FONT.
END OF EVITA MUSEUM. ALONG WITH AN INCREDIBLE STORY MADE ESPECIALLY INTENSE BY BEING HERE ON THE ANNIVERSARY OF PERON'S DEATH (JULY 26), THE DESIGN ELEMENTS HERE ARE SO INSPIRING.
THE LINE-UP AT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS FROM THE CROQUE MADAME PATIO.
AVOIDING ANY STRENUOUS ACTIVITY BY WAITING OUT THE LINE-UP AT THE DECORATIVE ARTS AT CROQUE MADAME.
CHEESY.
THE STUNNING FLORALIS GENERICA AT SUNSET.
SMALL SHARLENE, BIG MENU AT OSAKA.
RED LYCHEE MARTINI (MANGO VODKA, SAKE, LYCHEE JUICE, BERRIES).
TAKO ANTICHUCHOS (SUPER CHEWY GRILLED OCTOPUS, WOULDN'T RECOMMEND) AND KANI TAN (KING CRAB FILLED WITH PHILLY CREAM CHEESE- THERE IS A LOT OF CREAM CHEESE ON THE MENU WHICH I AM NOT A FAN OF BUT GOOD FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR A LITTLE AMERICAN INFLUENCE).
GRILLED SEAFOOD PLATE. AGAIN, PRETTY OVER-DONE, OVERLY SALTY AND CHEWY.
INDO SALMON CEVICHE (WITH CHILI JAM, LEMON, TOGARASHI, MANGO, AND COCONUT MILK)
DRINKS AT RIO CAFE IN PALERMO.
MAKING NEW FRIENDS WITH FELLOW-LIBRAS.
THE SCENE AT RIO CAFE.
NIGHT CAP AT CARNAL.
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PALERMO SOHO BEING PRETTY
On day 4, we finally headed to Soho (an easy 20 minute walk from our hotel, Palermo Place, in Hollywood) by going down Honduras, past the train tracks towards Thames, and a 360 around the district back to Honduras- a route worthy of the Olympics. Here’s my shopping map (just zoom into the Soho area). You'll notice many shops have quite the boho output (lots of lace, crochet, chiffon florals, and gems) which is not really my kind of thing but amidst the Anthropology-on-acid-type brands, I came across some incredible prints, chic footwear, and impressive statement jewelry. My fave shops in Soho: Tramando (fans of Phillip Lim will love), Pesqueira (very A.P.C.), Blackmamba (the BA Helmet Lang), Huija (quirky and vintage-inspired footwear), and Chico Ruiz (sexy and feminine footwear). Honorable mention: Patio del Liceo (it’s outside the heart of Soho on Sante Fe and Laprida but absolutely worth the venture to check out the books/clothes/records/galleries. Just hop on the good ol 152 bus).
Here's Day 4 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
BREAKFAST AT OUI OUI.
SO FRENCH IN BA.
SPEAKING OF FRENCH, THEIR TOAST WITH HONEY INSTEAD OF MAPLE SYRUP.
BEAUTIFUL GARDEN SHOP.
MISHMASH OF GRAFFITI EVERYWHERE.
MERCADO DE PULGAS = INTERIOR DECORATING HEAVEN.
WISH THERE WERE MORE PLACES LIKE MERCADO PULGAS FOR AFFORDABLE + UNIQUE FURNISHINGS...
LIKE THIS RUG I MASSIVELY REGRET NOT CONCOCTING A PLAN TO FLY BACK TO TORONTO WITH ME.
...AND THESE POTS. C'MON!
LUNCH BREAK AT MEDITERRANEAN/FRENCH SPOT CLUNY.
CRUNCHY SWEETBREADS TO START, THEN LAMB STUFFED BLACK SEPIA RAVIOLI.
SALMON W/ CASHEWS, CRUNCHY CASSAVA, WATERCRESS + RADISH SALAD, AND SHRIMP SAFFRON SAUCE.
TRAMANDO.
PESQUEIRA.
COLORS ALONG PALERMO SOHO.
VITAL ICECREAM PITSTOP AT PERSICCO. GOT THE "CHOCUQUINNA."
A dulce de leche base with a bit of cream cheese with chunks of chocolate cookie/cake.
DINNER AT TEGUI (VEERS TOWARDS THE OVERPRICED/OVERRATED RANGE BUT AWESOME DESIGN).
MINI PANCAKE APPS TO START.
A DELICIOUS WHIPPED GOAT CHEESE CONCOCTION.
VEAL WITH MASHED POTATOES AND A POACHED EGG. THE VEAL WAS EXCEPTIONALLY COOKED, 90 PESOS (WHICH IS ABOUT $47).
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KITTY SECURITY AT LENTAS MARAVILLAS
By the time we pulled into the historic quarter in Colonia del Sacramento (a UNESCO world heritage site) it was almost 5pm, so we had about an hour to look around and take a leap back in time (P.S. you cannot take a bad vintage-inspired photo here) before witnessing the gorgeous sunset over the Rio de la Plata at the insanely delicious teahouse/cafe, Lentas Maravillas. If you get the chance to visit Colonia, save at least a few hours to chill at Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61) and enjoy the amazing view of the river and fantastic selection of books and magazines.
Here’s Part 2 of our Uruguayan Break in pictures:
WALKING AROUND THE COBBLESTONE STREETS INCLUDING THE PRETTY CALLE DE LOS SUSPIROS
ARTE MURAL TASCA DE S MIGUEL
THE LITTLE DOOR THROUGH BUEN SUSPIRO (PITSTOP FOR CHEESE, WINE, AND DULCE DE LECHE)
CALLE DE SAN FRANCISCO AT SUNSET
FARO (RESTORED 19TH CENTURY LIGHTHOUSE) BY THE RUINS OF CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO
THE CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE LIGHTHOUSE
MADE IT TO THE TOP, IN ALL MY GLORY
GORGEOUS SUNSET OF THE RIO DE LA PLATA
IF THE SNAILS DON'T CATCH YOUR EYE...
THE AMAZING VIEW OF THE SUNSET OVER RIO DE LA PLATA FROM INSIDE
LENTAS MARAVILLAS OWNER/COOK/BAKER/ALL-AROUND BADASS, MAGGIE
ALWAYS GETTING MY HOT CHOC FILL WHENEVER I CAN
MADE WITH LOVE: CHICKEN CURRY ON THE RIGHT, SMOKED SALMON ON THE LEFT
LENTAS MARAVILLAS IS ACTUALLY MAGGIE'S HOME THAT SHE OPENS UP TO LUCKY PEEPS LIKE ME
THANKS SO MUCH TO MAGGIE FOR SHARING HER LOVELY HOME AND SENDING ME BACK TO B.A., FAT, FULL, AND HAPPY! XO
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THE RESIDENT SHEEP AT FINCA PIEDRA
I wanted to make the most of our week in South America, so I booked a day-getaway to Uruguay (via an hour Buquebus ferry ride from Buenos Aires to Colonia) with The Wine Experience to a true estancia in the countryside of San Jose, called Finca Piedra. Dang, do I love my wine but in no way am I an aficionado in that realm, so knowing that Uruguay is busting through as the next big wine destination, I was stoked to find out (i.e. indulge in) what makes the wine here so special through a rad wine pro. Cue: Ryan Hamilton of The Wine Experience. This dude knows his vino and he’s been traveling in all parts of the world working the wine thing for years, so his stories are both crazy/hilarious and much more entertaining than some old stuck-up sommelier.
Ryan picked us up at the port in Colonia and we began our Countryside Adventure to the incredible Finca Piedra. Driving to San Jose, you are hit with a calmness from the stunning nature (the palm trees are shorter and much fuller than the ones you see in California) to the expansive fields filled with more cows, sheep, and horses you could ever imagine. Coming from a buzzing, smoggy city, of course, I’m highly amused by this and think it’s the best thing ever.
As Ryan pulled into Finca Piedra, I was instantly taken aback by the stunning 1000 acres of vineyard and farm. Jason, who runs the estancia with his wife, welcomed us with big hugs and proudly showed us around the beautiful space.
Here’s how the Countryside Adventure at Finca Piedra went down:
INSIDE THE FINCA PIEDRA RESTAURANT...
INFINITY POOL (THERE'S ALSO TENNIS, VOLLEYBALL, FISHING, AND GOLF IF YOU CAN'T SWIM LIKE ME).
SUPER CUTE ANIMAL FARM...
WEEK OLD BABY RABBIT.
ENRICO, THE RESIDENT GAUCHO COOKING UP A URUGUAYAN BBQ (MORE MEAT!).
KEEP ON, KEEP ON EATING. SNACKS FOR THE WINE-TASTING.
JASON PRESENTS THE FIRST WINE...
A VIOGNIER... A FRESH PARTY WHITE.
RYAN AND JASON GIVE ME THE URUGUAYAN WINE 101.
THE LOCAL FAVE: TANNAT (A BOLD RED).
RYAN SCHOOLING ME ON WINE "LEGS" (I.E. ACIDITY). THE LONGER THE LEGS THE MORE ACIDITY. AIN'T THAT THE TRUTH.
BBQ OF SOUTH AFRICAN AND BLOOD SAUSAGES, CHICKEN, STEAK, AND RIBS WITH IN-HOUSE PRODUCED VEGGIES.
FLAN WITH MORE CREAMY, STICKY DULCE DE LECHE. HAVE YET TO HAVE A SINGLE MEAL WITHOUT IT.
HOW REGAL IS MY HORSE FOR THE NEXT HOUR?
SOMEONE LOVES MY LEATHER BOOTS.
RIDING THROUGH 1000 ACRES OF GORGEOUS VINEYARD AND FARMLAND...
THE VINEYARDS ARE SLEEPING AROUND NOW, WITH A BIG GROWTH IN SEPT/OCT, HARVEST IN FEB/MAR.
My horseback riding session wrapped up at around 3pm and we made our heartfelt goodbyes to Finca Piedra (not before buying up some bottles of Tannat and olive oil). Ryan drove us back into Colonia del Sacramento where we could conquer the UNESCO quarter and watch the much talked about sunset over the Río de la Plata.
Thanks so much to The Wine Experience for arranging the perfect Uruguayan introduction at Finca Piedra xx
If you're lucky and have a few more days in Uruguay, you can actually stay in Finca Piedra and take in the full agri/ecoturismo experience. For more information:
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EL CAMINITO IN LA BOCA
Having gotten a dose of rural Mataderos life on the first day, today’s dedicated to exploring the major historical districts- basically, setting the base before spending the rest of the week reaping the modern ways of wining, dining, and shopping in BA. Now old pals, Madi from BA Cultural Concierge met us at our hotel at Palermo Place and introduced us to the extensive bus system in Buenos Aires (there’s like 200 different buses). We started with the 152 bus on Sante Fe and Carranza and made our way to La Boca, home to the colourful El Caminto, then the 29 bus to San Telmo, walked all the way up Defensa to Plaza de Mayo (pronounced Ma-sho), and subte (subway) to the El Congreso building. If you start at 11:30am, expect to wrap around 5:30/6pm.
Here's Day 2 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
CUTE OVERLOAD: BREAKFAST AT PANI
READY TO FEAST
THE TOPPINGS TRIFECTA: DULCE DE LECHE, WHIPPED CREAM CHEESE, AND PASSION FRUIT JAM
DULCE DE LECHE SMOTHERED ON A SCONE? YES PLEASE.
WALKING THROUGH LA BOCA (AN ITALIAN BARRIO WHERE TANGO IN B.A. WAS BORN)
THE OLD PORT
MADE IT TO EL CAMINITO
MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES DEDICATED TO THE WORK OF BENITO QUINQUELA MARTIN
EL CAMINITO'S COLORFUL HOUSES ATTRACT HUNDREDS OF TOURISTS AND I CAN SEE WHY
CAMINITO'S CONCENTRATED COLORS ARE ACHIEVED WITH THICK BOAT PAINT
VINTAGE APARTMENT ABOVE EL PARAISO
CATS ON A TIN ROOF
OVERLOOKING EL PARAISO
PROA MUSEUM (MAKE SURE TO CHECK OUT THE UPSTAIRS CAFE)
UNINTENTIONAL ART INSTALLATION? CUTE OLD MAN WATCHING TV INSIDE A LIFE-SIZED DOLLHOUSE.
LA PERLA BAR
INSIDE LA PERLA
WELCOME TO SAN TELMO
BLACK CAT GRAFFITI IN SAN TELMO
SAN TELMO'S CONVERGENCE OF FRENCH AND ITALIAN ARCHITECTURAL INFLUENCES
MERCADO DE SAN TELMO
JUAN ANTONIO BUSCHIAZZO, THE ARCHITECT BEHIND MERCADO DE SAN TELMO
DOLLS, DOLLS, DOLLS
VERDULERIA FRUTERIA
VEGGIE RELIEF AT HIERBABUENA
MUSHROOM RISOTTO
WARM SPINACH SALAD WITH RED PEPPERS, EGGPLANT, SPROUTS
FARMACIA DE LA ESTRELLA OPEN SINCE 1894
BEAUTIFUL ORIGINAL FRESCOES ON THE CEILING INSIDE LA FARMACIA
PASAJE DE LA DEFENSA SIGN SHOWING THE GRIT OF BUENOS AIRES
AKA CASA CHORIZO (SAUSAGE HOUSE) BECAUSE OF ITS NARROWNESS
VINTAGE SHOP ON DEFENSA, EL BUEN ORDEN
THE HISTORIC CENTRE OF BUENOS AIRES, PLAZA DE MAYO
CASA ROSADA PRESIDENTIAL PALACE. EVA PERON REGALED THOUSANDS FROM THIS BALCONY.
HEAD SCARVES ON THE GROUND REPRESENT THE MADRES DE PLAZA DE MAYO
OLD SCHOOL WOODEN SUBWAY CARS MODERNIZED BY GRAFFITI OF TODAY
ALL ORIGINAL WOOD INTERIOR
PUT A BIRD ON IT... FLY-BY PHOTOBOMB AT AVENIDA 9 DE JULIO.
FOR THE LOVE OF STEAK. THE LINE-UP AT PARRILLA (PRONOUNCED PAR-EE-SHA) LA CABRERA.
MEAT LOVERS REJOICE, EVEN THE PLATES ARE COW-SHAPED.
GRILLED PROVELTA CHEESE WITH SUNDRIED TOMATOES
RIB EYE STEAK AND SHORT-RIBS (IN THE BKGD)
TOO... FULL... TO HOLD... HEAD UP.
For a packed day like this, I'd recommend BA Cultural Concierge - there are a ton of free and paid tour guides around Buenos Aires but I particularly liked the balance of Madi's insane knowledge and casualness. It felt more like discovering the city with a friend who happens to be a local, rather than a stiff city guide. We got along so well that aside from us both being around the same age (and Libras), we found we had a lot in common and actually did become friends. Love when that happens.
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EVEN THE KID GAUCHOS ARE BADASS IN MATADEROS, BUENOS AIRES
After 17 hours of traveling on the red eye (with a connection via Atlanta on Delta with no mishaps… miracles do happen!), we arrived in Buenos Aires on an early Sunday morning and checked into Palermo Place. Located in the heart of trendy Palermo Hollywood (the epicenter of chic restaurants and bars) Palermo Place is a small boutique hotel with a big heart. Before I even flew over, the amazing front desk ladies, Florencia and Leticia, helped buy my ferry tickets to Uruguay because the Buquebus site wasn't recognizing my foreign credit card and booked us a really affordable and safe airport taxi. When we finally arrived, they greeted us with a huge welcome (the complimentary bottle of Patagonian wine and alfajores helped too). I'll take that over any 4-star chain any day.
FLORENCIA
LETICIA
Since it’s the only Sunday we’d be in town for, we hit up the incredible Feria de Mataderos with Madi Lang from BA Cultural Concierge. I enlisted the help of Madi for a historical day guide for the Monday around BA, but because she is such a sweetheart, she came and met us a day early at our hotel to take us to the massive weekly fair in Mataderos. About a half-hour (and 60 pesos) away from Hollywood, Mataderos which means slaughterhouse in Spanish, is a rural area known for its livestock and gauchos (cowboys). On Sundays, there are musical performances by locals and hundreds of food and craft stalls filled with one-of-a-kind jewelry, shoes, artwork, jams, cheeses… everything.
Be prepared to polish up on your Spanish before arriving. Most residents speak little English, so learn your essentials like "cuanto questa" (how much does this cost?), "donde esta el baño" (where is the bathroom?), "la cuenta, por favor" (the bill, please), "de nada" (thank you), and "perdon, hablas Ingles" (excuse me, do you speak English?), and if the menu doesn't offer an English side, you may have to sneak out your Spanish dictionary, or suck it up and be adventurous, you're on vacation! You just may end up ordering your new favorite dish.
Here's Day 1 in Buenos Aires in pictures:
BREAKFAST AT BARTOLA
ENTERING FERIA DE MATADEROS
ALL SMILES IN THE STALLS
THE OG GAUCHO
FIRST STALL STOP: SHOES AT CALZADO
HANDMADE LEATHER SANDALS
TALKING MATE GOURDS
"HOLD ME TIGHT AND SUCK ME SLOW"
IN THE HEART OF THE FAIR
RINGS ON RINGS ON RINGS. NO COMPLAINTS.
REGRET NOT BUYING THIS ENTIRE SCARF RACK. GORGEOUS.
LA POSTA DE LORENZO PULPERIA
READY FOR ALL THE EMPANADAS
LOCRA AND EMPANADA, MADE FRESH TO ORDER
LOCALS COME TO TANGO
TANGO ON THE STREETS
MATE GOURD MAKING IS SERIOUS BUSINESS HERE
MATADEROS MUSEUM TERRACE REALNESS
FERIA DE MATADEROS AT SUNSET
MATE BREAK
MATE READY
MET THE MOST ADORABLE COUPLE, ANTONIO AND ANGELA, WHO TOLD US HOW THEY FELL IN LOVE AND MOVED TO BUENOS AIRES FROM ITALY... HEART, MELTING.
BACK AT THE HOTEL: THE LADIES OF PALERMO PLACE DO IT BETTER
DINNER AT OLSEN.
FRESH BAGELS TO START IS ALWAYS A GOOD SIGN
PUMPKIN SOUP WITH GREEN APPLE COMPOTE AND BLUE CHEESE TOAST
SAUTEED CHICKEN LIVERS ON ENDIVE, SHALLOT CREAM AND SOURDOUGH TOAST
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