Read my latest on Istria, Croatia on W Dish.
2300 hours of sunshine a year, 3000 years of fascinating history, and a heart-shaped peninsula that spans 3600-sq-km. All the numbers in Istria, Croatia add up to an unforgettable summer destination. This spectacular part of northern Croatia is only 80km wide and 95km north to south, meaning you can experience the untouched countryside AND the Adriatic coastal paradise all in the same day.
I present to you, the 10 reasons why you should really go to Istria this summer:
1. The Oozing Charm
You can’t walk the shiny cobblestone streets of Istria without a giant smile on your face. If you’re a sucker for all things cute overload, do not miss a visit to Grožnjan and Rovinj. The latter enchants with intimate alleyways and courtyards guarded by friendly cats full of swagger, and sun-bleached apartments with freshly lined laundry. Rovinj’s coastal side is a prime go-to for the most stunning sunset views of the Adriatic. Meanwhile, Grožnjan is proudly referred to as the City of Artists, thanks in huge part to the abundance of independent galleries and shops as well as artists who summer here—Marina Abramović had an apartment in Grožnjan for years—and open their studios to showcase special pieces of work for sale and display. I couldn’t get over the fairytale vibe that the medieval buildings in Grožnjan give off—it feels like you’ve gone back in time and stepped into a storybook.
2. Dramatic Rich History
Istria’s civilization dates back to at least the Bronze Age and for most of its rocky lifespan, Istria has been under the rule of everyone from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarians. Up until 1947, the area was controlled by Italy, so it’s not rare that a walk down one block, you’ll pass by a Venetian square and some ancient Roman columns,and maybe an old Slavic church in between too. The mix of influences can be dizzying but completely enthralling. Don’t miss these deep historic traces in the beautiful streets and palazzos of Novigrad-Cittanova and Istria’s largest city, Pula, where the famous amphitheatre is located.
3. The Clearest, Bluest Sea, You Ever Did See
It’s no wonder the coast of Istria’s adoring nickname is “Blue Istria” as it’s surrounded by the gorgeously clean and clear Adriatic Sea. For sun and sea lovers, it’s easy to spend your entire vacation sailing from island to island and exploring all the breathtaking beaches. On the most southern tip of the peninsula, you’ll find a protected park called Cape Kamenjak where there’s sandy beaches, high cliffs for deep sea-diving, and flat giant rocks along the coast ideal for sunbathing, which are all near the cape’s Safari bar—a perfect spot for a post-sunning drink.
4. Taste the Sea
When walking along the quaint streets of the many coastal towns in Istria, you’ll see and smell all the yummy creatures of the sea. In a five minute span, I went from gazing at an enormous group of sea urchin by the Rovinj harbor to passing old town restaurants grilling octopus and shrimps, before arriving at the seaside restaurant, Puntulina where I devoured sardines and anchovies freshly pickled in lemon juice and olive oil (so fresh, they melt in your mouth!) while watching the bright orange sunset over the Adriatic.
5. Truffles! Truffles! Truffles!
The truffle reigns supreme in Croatia, especially in Istria where the coveted delicacy is unearthed. Eat it in honey, pasta, sausage, cheese… you name it, put truffles on it! Every year, Istria throws a huge Truffle Days festival where the special tuber is celebrated and thousands of eggs (the number is equivalent to the year, so this year there will be 2015 eggs) scrambled and cooked with 10kg of truffle goodness. This year the festival will be held November 7-8 in Buzet.
6. A Hop, Skip, and a Jump Away from Italy
Just across the water is Italy, making Istria a super easy inclusion into a grander Euro adventure. The Istrian towns of Umag, Novigrad, Buje, Grožnjan, and Poreč are less than an hour drive from Trieste, and Rovinj is just a two-hour boat ride from Venice. Since the Italians ruled Istria for decades, the Italian influence is undeniable—everyone speaks Italian and all the street signs are written in both Croatian and Italian. You can actually be sipping a cocktail, looking at Venice across the Adriatic while sitting at a rooftop bar in Savudrija. So amazing.
7. Less Tourists
The difference between Venice and Istria, though? Istria is still a bit of a hidden gem, so expect cheaper prices, much cleaner streets (the roads actually sparkle!), less noise, and way less tourists. Even in mid-August, you can still get away from intense crowds in the interior, “Green Istria,” where you can relish in the unspoiled countryside of hilltop towns, lush untouched parks and valleys, and vibrant vineyards.
8. Wine That Flows Like Water
One word: Malvasia. When it comes to a nice summer white, the fresh and crisp Istrian Malvasia is a no-brainer and my new favorite go-to. Everyone makes wine in Istria so expect generous offerings wherever you go. I think after a week in Istria, I roughly drank about 65 different types of Malvasia, Teran and Muskat wines, and I’m a lightweight!
9. Everything is Local
You can live like a local by taking part in activities with vineyards and farms, like harvesting grapes, cultivating olive groves, truffle hunting, and foraging wild asparagus. Almost all ingredients used at the restaurants and konobas (authentic rustic taverns) are grown right in the backyard, so you can actually taste the Mediterranean sun that nourishes the Istrian soil. I’m a sucker for bringing back local products—some favorites were the local sage honey and dried lavender from Histria Aromatica, fig and cacao jam from Zigante, and Ipša olive oil—to bring back the experience and enjoy back home.
10. Everyone is Family
Everyone is treated like family in Istria. At every restaurant and vineyard I visited, I noticed that they were all run by family members—young sons and daughters who worked the front of house, the tasting rooms and the fields, while the parents cooked in the kitchen or led the unique property tours—and so, they welcome you in as one of their own. That kind of hospitality is beyond heartwarming and stays with you for a lifetime.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA