Yes, you come to Úbeda for the history, but trust me, you will come back for the food.
Make sure you hit these spots to eat on your visit:
Restaurante del Hotel Palacio de Úbeda - Calle Juan Pasquau, 4, 23400
Cantina La Estación - Cuesta Rodadera, 1, 23400
My favorite meal of the entire trip was here - at Cantina La Estación. The food was not only inventive but equally, if not even more, delicious than the concept/plating (and as we all know, innovative food does not always mean delicious food). The restaurant's design is inspired by a vintage train station and the kitchen consists of a team of young, fearless chefs.
Restaurante Zeitúm - Corredera San Fernando, 32, 23400
Zeitúm was probably the buzziest restaurant I tried on this trip - headed by Chef Anselmo Juarez, word on the street is that Zeitúm might be the first restaurant in the Jaen region to be awarded a Michelin star.