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I met some incredible women in Hawaii who, to put it simply, get shit done, all the while being generously kind and absolutely inspiring. In Kona, where there is so much history to learn, things to discover, and activities to partake in, there was no shortage of said badass ladies. As action filled as Kona was, it was the women of the trip who really touched my heart and left me with the warmest sense of ohana (I told you, Hawaii has turned me into a total sap!).
There's nothing I love more than road tripping around a beautiful island - with stunning views of the land + water and all the delicious food stops along the drive, it's the best way to get up close and local. On Hawaii Island, we got to cover the top 180 of the island going north-west from Hilo to Kona.
As you know, I fell in love with Ibiza. My latest with W Dish is all about how the stunning white isle is so very much more than the molly-fuelled raves people think about when they hear the word, Ibiza.
I made it a mission to explore everything Ibiza is about other than the molly-fueled bikini bods clubbing under neon flashing lights image that many people think about when they hear the word “Ibiza,” and you know what? It wasn’t hard at all to discover that Ibiza is so very much more than that.
Located east of the Iberian Peninsula, Ibiza is the most south of the Balearic Islands and was declared World Heritage status by UNESCO based on its phenomenal natural and cultural features. Like it’s sister island, Mallorca, Ibiza experiences a glorious 300 days of sunshine, minimum, a year. Ibiza definitely has an air of the rich and famous with its frequent tide of movie and rock stars, models and local celebs rolling in on their bright white yachts, but the island’s choose your own adventure vibe is what really got me hooked. In Ibiza, anything goes.
Become a Hippy
Ibiza’s open mind and freedom to be who you are is such a welcoming spirit to enter into. My favorite thing on the whole trip was a visit to the Las Dalias Hippy Market. A loving nod to its hippy roots, Mercadillo Hippy takes places every Saturday on a beautiful garden space draped with exotic flowers and filled with artisans selling one-of-a-kind clothing, jewelry, handmade shoes, home decor, art works… you name it and it’s made and sold here. It’s a great opportunity to take a piece of the “ad-lib” fashion (from the Latin word “ad libitum” meaning “at one’s pleasure”) that was born here (think white long flowy cotton dresses). What really won me over was not just the quality of the products sold; the friendliness of the artists and all the little details like the local bands playing live music, the cute outdoor restaurant in the centre of the dreamy vine garden and the fun Soul Bar with rotating DJs, made it more than just a regular market but rather, an incredibly memorable experience. I dare you not to make a new friend or two at the Las Dalias Hippy Market.
Escape to the Countryside
When you leave the tourist trail, you’ll discover the alluring countryside that’s unknown to a lot of visitors to Ibiza. I stayed at the agritourism haven, Can Lluc, in a cozy villa surrounded by fragrant carob and olive trees, and a charming siesta sanctuary in my front yard complete with a rainbow hammock. An easy bike ride down nearby Buscastell—the one grocery store, one bar and one school town—passing by ancient farmhouses and almond and orange groves is pure serenity and quaint-ness at it’s finest.
Take Comfort in a Slower Pace
It’s totally not hard to succumb to the calm and easygoing energy of Ibiza. Es Puig de Missa is a beaut built on a hilltop in Santa Eulària and is the perfect spot to escape the crowds. You can visit the pretty white church tower at the top, which dates back to the 16th century and offers spectacular views overlooking the entire town. Of course, there was a romantic wedding being set-up there when I visited, adding even more to the romcom-like allure. It really is unreal how clean and picturesque every corner is – for a second, I thought about pulling an Under The Tuscan Sun and buying a sweet little house on the hill.
Shopping Therapy by the Beach
With the white sands and crystal clear waters of the over 56 beaches in Ibiza, chances are you’ll be hitting a beach or ten during your time on the island. Being the clothes hound that I am, I discovered that shopping and beaching go hand in hand. Two of my favorite shops in Ibiza, Treasure Chest at Experimental Beach with fabulous local designers and the impossibly chic shop (in a straw hut!) in the parking lot at Playa Es Cavallet’s El Chiringuito, made sure there was no time lost between sun, sand and “I’ll take this in a small, por favor.”
More Than Just Food
Eating is a joy in Ibiza and is as delightful and carefree as its people. Just as you don’t need to stray far from the beach to get your shopping fix, the same goes for the fresh paella, crispy calamari and flaò (a sweet tart made of goat and sheep’s milk) offered at beachside restaurants like El Carmen in Cala d’Hort beach, which is uber-delicious and a prime spot for babe-watching. On dry land, I absolutely fell in love with Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera, a lovely town with a pedestrian-only center sprinkled with adorable boutiques and restaurants, including Bar Costa where you can sit on little woven stools on the terrace slowly indulging in jamòn sandwiches and San Miguel beer as the warm Balearic sun kisses your skin.
Relic in a Natural Wonder
Ses Salines Natural Park is a UNESCO Item of World Heritage and a magnificent sight to see. Situated between southern Ibiza and northern Formentera (which is a 20 minute ferry ride away and very well worth the daytrip for its pristine secluded beaches), the park also includes the sea channel that separates both islands and contains 178 species of rare plants and 210 species of birds (including gorgeous pink flamingos!). Salines, meaning salt in Spanish, has a deep history in Ibiza and for two months in the autumn, the salt flats at the park become opaque enough, creating a perfectly mirrored image of this natural wonder.
Recently, a press trip to Mallorca and Ibiza included a stopover for a few days in Madrid - a city that I love and haven't been back to since 2009. I love Madrid not only because it's full of history, talent and fantastic eats but especially because it reunites me with my former roommates from that one summer many moons ago in London.
As I start to write this Ibiza recap, now back in Canadian temps and just seconds from hearing about a "snow squall" warning, I ask myself, "Was self-inflicted emotional torture on the to do list today?!" It's so hard to have experienced the gorgeous and carefree island of Ibiza and not wish you had stayed much longer (or never left!).
Here's Part 1 of some of my favorite moments in stunning Ibiza:
Read my latest on Istria, Croatia on W Dish.
2300 hours of sunshine a year, 3000 years of fascinating history, and a heart-shaped peninsula that spans 3600-sq-km. All the numbers in Istria, Croatia add up to an unforgettable summer destination. This spectacular part of northern Croatia is only 80km wide and 95km north to south, meaning you can experience the untouched countryside AND the Adriatic coastal paradise all in the same day.
I present to you, the 10 reasons why you should really go to Istria this summer:
1. The Oozing Charm
You can’t walk the shiny cobblestone streets of Istria without a giant smile on your face. If you’re a sucker for all things cute overload, do not miss a visit to Grožnjan and Rovinj. The latter enchants with intimate alleyways and courtyards guarded by friendly cats full of swagger, and sun-bleached apartments with freshly lined laundry. Rovinj’s coastal side is a prime go-to for the most stunning sunset views of the Adriatic. Meanwhile, Grožnjan is proudly referred to as the City of Artists, thanks in huge part to the abundance of independent galleries and shops as well as artists who summer here—Marina Abramović had an apartment in Grožnjan for years—and open their studios to showcase special pieces of work for sale and display. I couldn’t get over the fairytale vibe that the medieval buildings in Grožnjan give off—it feels like you’ve gone back in time and stepped into a storybook.
2. Dramatic Rich History
Istria’s civilization dates back to at least the Bronze Age and for most of its rocky lifespan, Istria has been under the rule of everyone from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarians. Up until 1947, the area was controlled by Italy, so it’s not rare that a walk down one block, you’ll pass by a Venetian square and some ancient Roman columns,and maybe an old Slavic church in between too. The mix of influences can be dizzying but completely enthralling. Don’t miss these deep historic traces in the beautiful streets and palazzos of Novigrad-Cittanova and Istria’s largest city, Pula, where the famous amphitheatre is located.
3. The Clearest, Bluest Sea, You Ever Did See
It’s no wonder the coast of Istria’s adoring nickname is “Blue Istria” as it’s surrounded by the gorgeously clean and clear Adriatic Sea. For sun and sea lovers, it’s easy to spend your entire vacation sailing from island to island and exploring all the breathtaking beaches. On the most southern tip of the peninsula, you’ll find a protected park called Cape Kamenjak where there’s sandy beaches, high cliffs for deep sea-diving, and flat giant rocks along the coast ideal for sunbathing, which are all near the cape’s Safari bar—a perfect spot for a post-sunning drink.
4. Taste the Sea
When walking along the quaint streets of the many coastal towns in Istria, you’ll see and smell all the yummy creatures of the sea. In a five minute span, I went from gazing at an enormous group of sea urchin by the Rovinj harbor to passing old town restaurants grilling octopus and shrimps, before arriving at the seaside restaurant, Puntulina where I devoured sardines and anchovies freshly pickled in lemon juice and olive oil (so fresh, they melt in your mouth!) while watching the bright orange sunset over the Adriatic.
5. Truffles! Truffles! Truffles!
The truffle reigns supreme in Croatia, especially in Istria where the coveted delicacy is unearthed. Eat it in honey, pasta, sausage, cheese… you name it, put truffles on it! Every year, Istria throws a huge Truffle Days festival where the special tuber is celebrated and thousands of eggs (the number is equivalent to the year, so this year there will be 2015 eggs) scrambled and cooked with 10kg of truffle goodness. This year the festival will be held November 7-8 in Buzet.
6. A Hop, Skip, and a Jump Away from Italy
Just across the water is Italy, making Istria a super easy inclusion into a grander Euro adventure. The Istrian towns of Umag, Novigrad, Buje, Grožnjan, and Poreč are less than an hour drive from Trieste, and Rovinj is just a two-hour boat ride from Venice. Since the Italians ruled Istria for decades, the Italian influence is undeniable—everyone speaks Italian and all the street signs are written in both Croatian and Italian. You can actually be sipping a cocktail, looking at Venice across the Adriatic while sitting at a rooftop bar in Savudrija. So amazing.
7. Less Tourists
The difference between Venice and Istria, though? Istria is still a bit of a hidden gem, so expect cheaper prices, much cleaner streets (the roads actually sparkle!), less noise, and way less tourists. Even in mid-August, you can still get away from intense crowds in the interior, “Green Istria,” where you can relish in the unspoiled countryside of hilltop towns, lush untouched parks and valleys, and vibrant vineyards.
8. Wine That Flows Like Water
One word: Malvasia. When it comes to a nice summer white, the fresh and crisp Istrian Malvasia is a no-brainer and my new favorite go-to. Everyone makes wine in Istria so expect generous offerings wherever you go. I think after a week in Istria, I roughly drank about 65 different types of Malvasia, Teran and Muskat wines, and I’m a lightweight!
9. Everything is Local
You can live like a local by taking part in activities with vineyards and farms, like harvesting grapes, cultivating olive groves, truffle hunting, and foraging wild asparagus. Almost all ingredients used at the restaurants and konobas (authentic rustic taverns) are grown right in the backyard, so you can actually taste the Mediterranean sun that nourishes the Istrian soil. I’m a sucker for bringing back local products—some favorites were the local sage honey and dried lavender from Histria Aromatica, fig and cacao jam from Zigante, and Ipša olive oil—to bring back the experience and enjoy back home.
10. Everyone is Family
Everyone is treated like family in Istria. At every restaurant and vineyard I visited, I noticed that they were all run by family members—young sons and daughters who worked the front of house, the tasting rooms and the fields, while the parents cooked in the kitchen or led the unique property tours—and so, they welcome you in as one of their own. That kind of hospitality is beyond heartwarming and stays with you for a lifetime.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
Read my latest article “ROAD-TRIPPING ACROSS ISTRIA: THE LAND OF TRUFFLES” on Travel & Style.
Like Oprah (don’t we all wish we could start every sentence this way), I have a major love affair with the truffle and have always wanted to have a try at hunting this coveted culinary delicacy, and like Oprah, I recently got to check this off my bucket list on a road trip across the heart of Istria in the Croatian peninsula to Karlić Tartufi. Istria’s phenomenal cuisine draws in food lovers near and far—it’s not unusual for inhabitants in neighboring Italy and Slovenia to make the two and half hour drive to indulge in a meal rich in local Istrian truffles and make it back home before bedtime, cravings satisfied; possibly in more ways than one, as truffles are known to be quite the aphrodisiac.
Istrian Truffles 101
White truffles (Tuber Magnatum) are in season between mid-September and early October until mid-December, and considered the most rare of the bunch, fetching close to $4000 a pound. Compared to that, the $1200-ish a pound price tag for the black variety, aka the summer truffle, is merely chunk change. So, it’s no wonder that the white truffle is lovingly referred to as “Istrian gold” here; a nickname that was birthed in 1999 when a nearly 2 1/2-pound white truffle was found in the precious grey soil of the thick Buzet forests near the Mirna river valley by Zigante Tartufi.
Arrival at Karlić Tartufi
Although you can stay at the Karlić estate in the gorgeous Villa Maslina, I drove in from Rovinj, my home base for the week, and was met by the lovely Mrs. Radmila Karlić, who grew up hunting truffles with her father, Ivan. Ivan established the family’s successful truffle business in 1966 and the Karlić’s have been non-stop since.
Radmilla starts the three-hour truffle tour with delicious shots of welcome grappa and then, an insane offering of truffle cheeses, salami and pâtés, before delving into a quick session on how to cook her famous soft scrambled eggs with black truffles, which of course you get to binge on afterwards accompanied by a selection of white Malvasia and red Teran. With full truffle inspiration under our belt and in our stomachs, my small group of fellow Tuber lovers and I headed to the bottom of the estate to the forests with Radmila’s 22 year old son, the namesake of her father, Ivan, a third generation truffle hunter who at only 14 years old found a 200 gram “Joker” truffle with the family’s star dog, Blackie.
The Hunt
With the help of three trained and adorable truffle hunting dogs, we briskly walked through the woods in hopes of finding a truffle and as Ivan revealed, “the most important thing is to have very good dogs. You can have the best forest in the world and not find truffles, if you don’t have very good dogs.” Knowing the extremely tight competition of truffle hunting—I had read about truffle “mafias” poisoning other family’s dogs—I asked Ivan if he had any first-hand experiences of the dangers of the trade. “When you go to one forest and then another forest, some people get jealous because they think you’re getting too many truffles, like a few years ago, they slit other people’s tires… But recently, no, because you have to have a license to truffle hunt here and the license is about 200 Euros, so you don’t want to risk losing your license. In our forest, everybody knows everybody, so there’s no bad business but I heard in France, truffle hunters shoot other truffle hunters when they try to go to a village where they think there are more truffles.” So the key to keeping your truffle stash abundant? “When you find a truffle you don’t put it in the news. You must be ‘shhh.’ Why? Because if other people hear you find big truffle in which forest, then they will come to same forest. You wait ‘til end of season, then you say, ‘I found this truffle.’”
The Rewards
Luckily for us we didn’t have to deflect any competitors during this hunting session—the dogs excitedly uncovered two large red truffles, which are unfortunately inedible. From Ivan’s hushed “shoo shoo” in repetitive singsong to encourage the dogs to roam and sniff, to the instant adrenaline hit that’d come when it seemed like a treasure was about to be unearthed, it was nonetheless an absolutely incredible experience to see the art of the truffle hunt. Like the loving dishes that are cooked from the truffles at Karlić, there is so much love and commitment poured into the dedicated hunt that provides the truffles as well.
Extras
On the drive back to Rovinj, there are a ton of delicious pit stops to be made, road signs with marked oil mills and wine cellars making it pretty easy to keep your stomach full. My favorites stops were an enlightening olive oil tasting at the renowned Ipša estate (for the past five years, Flos Olei, a prestigious Italian guide to the best in olive oils, ranked Ipša the second best extra-virgin olive oil in the world), a visit to the god father of the biggest white truffle in the Guinness World Records, Zigante Tartufi, to buy some local truffle honey, jams and spreads for gifts, and a fascinating wine tasting at the gorgeous Kozlovic winery in Buje, just 10 minutes from the picturesque fairytale-like streets of Grožnjan. Once you’ve hit all the essential pit stops, you will inevitably need to end the day with a satisfying dinner. Super close to Kozlovic, I loved stopping by Stari podrum for what was my biggest feast of the entire trip. Expect rustic generous portions of home cooked goodness like buttery potato rösti, creamy truffle pastas and local Istrian beef cooked to perfection by a loving mother and daughter duo.
Now, what are you waiting for, go check that truffle box off your bucket list.
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
Check out my latest piece on Istria on Travel & Style.
Istria. Some have touted this vast and magical land of endless rolling green hills and sparkling clear waters as the Tuscany of Croatia because of the area’s renowned olive oil, truffles, and wine, and incredibly short two and a half hour drive from Venice, or just two hours if you’re a local. Regardless of its Tuscan comparisons, there is one thing for certain about Istria—it is a prime destination to spoil yourself rotten without breaking the bank (forget the Euro, the Croatian Kuna is the currency of choice, so revel in dividing all the prices by 5.5!). Whether you dedicate your entire vacation to Croatia or include it as a stop in a grand European hop, take the time to experience these 5 things you must do to treat yourself in Istria:
1. Tap into your inner architecture nerd and check-in to stylish luxury
The Hotel Lone is a gorgeous 5-star design hotel right by the protected Zlatni Rt forest just ten minutes from Rovinj’s charming and romantic city centre. Hotel Lone’s architecture is designed by 3LHD with furniture by Numen/For Use. The combination of fascinating design meets spatial functionality extends to its 12 suites and 236 boutique rooms, which are all uniquely designed and include a spacious balcony. I stayed in one of the “Jazz Rooms” that overlooks onto an infinity pool view of Zlatni Rt park and Mulini beach. What’s that saying again, once you go infinity pool view, you never go back? Included in the accommodations is the use of the Wellness & Spa zone—Finnish, Aroma, and Turkish saunas, indoor heated pool with hydro massage, gym, and the Vitality health bar.
2. Lose hours by the Adriatic Sea
Every pit stop along the coast that was made during my adventure in Istria, I was completely awestruck but the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic Sea. There’s something about being able to see right to the bottom of the sea that is so incredibly captivating. After walking along the seaside path (lungomare) in Rovinj, or nearby Pula, Poreč and Umag, you can easily arrange boat tours directly at the local ports, or by asking the reception at your hotel in advance. Make sure to include a stop at the stunning National Park in Brijuni Islands. The Brijuni Islands can be reached by boat departing daily from the Pula waterfront or from the nearby fishing village of Fazana. As the only national park in Istria, Brijuni and its 14 islands span an area of 736 square hectares covered in rare and rich flora, making Brijuni one the most beautiful archipelagos in the Mediterranean. Once on dry land, the aquatic affair continues on to the local cuisine with the freshest seafood—all the shrimp, octopus, anchovies, sardines, sea urchin, and fish you could dream of.
3. Indulge in Truffles at Every Meal
The truffle is of huge pride in Croatia—the largest white truffle in the Guinness Book of Records was found in Buzet, Istria by Zigante Tartufi—and is abundantly offered and served in restaurants and konobas (taverns) across the country. Known to be quite the aphrodisiac, the Istrian truffle was considered a special culinary delight as early as Roman times. There is no better way to spoil your taste buds than having all that precious truffle goodness shaved onto every dish. From decadent soft scrambled eggs, fuzi pasta in the local sugo white sauce, ice cream (YES, ice cream), salumi, soft and hard cheeses, and various pâtés, truffles can be incorporated into any dish and pleasantly devoured meal after meal.
4. Taste all of the wines
For centuries, Istrians have been historically tied to its distinctive grapes and quality winemaking. You won’t find a single restaurant that doesn’t boast its excellent wine selection while lovingly encouraging you to try all their Malvasia (fresh and crisp white), Teran (rich and robust red with slightly higher acidity), Refosk (quite strong and tannic with a deep plum color) and Muscat (dry and sweet desert-like). To really get the full experience and deep histories of the wines in Istria, a visit (or two, or three) to a winery such as the stunning vineyards and cellars of Kozlovic, one of the oldest winemaking families in Istria and winners of the Royal Wine and International Wine challenges, or Degrassi where just a couple of hundred meters from the cellar stands the oldest lighthouse on the entire Adriatic, marking the most western point of Croatia. After days of indulging close to 60 different wines in Istria, my favorite was a glass of Uroboros Malvasia at Trapan, which was incredibly fresh, yet had a delicious woodsy aftertaste, like a warm campfire. A truly unique and delicious white.
5. Take a spa break
Nothing beats a rejuvenating and relaxing spa break—you are on vacation after all! If there’s one spa stop you make in Istria, make it the Energy Clinic’s Carolea Spa at the Kempinski Hotel Adriatic. Pampering bods for more than 15 years, the Carolea Spa includes treatments like the popular Energy Clinic Signature Massage, 30 minute Anti-Stress Body Scrub, or my personal favorite, the Royal Hammam in the all-marble Hammam suite, which combines both massage and thorough body scrub-down with the traditional bathing rituals from Turkey and the Middle East. The Hammam’s MO is to cleanse, relax, and purify the body and skin. In true Treat Yourself form, the Royal Hammam finishes with a serving of Champagne and fresh fruit at the end of the session in the relaxation area equipped with waterbeds and heated loungers. To take advantage of the amenities, I’d recommend a 15-20 minute session in the dry saunas prior to the Hammam—either the Bio or Finnish sauna because their temperatures of 75C to 90C will give your body a really nice warm-up, and then a try at the ice cabin or Roman plunge pools post-Hammam relaxation. I know, I said that you probably won’t break your bank treating yourself in Istria but maybe you kinda want to? In that case, I’d add an Esensa Mediterana Golden Life facial, a lifting facial that includes 24-carat gold leaves (!) that improve your skin’s tone and glow by slowing down cell oxidation.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
Read my latest Toronto travel guide for Trivago.
Recently ranked the best city to live in the world by The Economist and having the second coolest neighborhood (West Queen West) in the world by Vogue, Toronto is quite the media darling of late but it’s no surprise to the many who lovingly call Toronto home. Having lived in the city for most of my life now, I constantly find myself discovering amazing spots to eat, drink, and shop. Here’s a morning to night rundown of some of my old standbys and new favorites.
Start With Brunch
I’ve always been a sucker for delicious cross-cultural concoctions and Patois’ fun family- style Caribbean-Asian soul food is no exception. Playful brunch items include the Hong “King” Kong Waffle, which is a Hong Kong-style egg waffle, topped with macerated strawberries, whipped cream, drizzled Nutella and crispy plantain chips, and the Patois Eggs Benny with two spicy Jamaican beef patties, poached eggs, jerk Mortadella and the smoothest Hollandaise. This is definitely not your ordinary scrambled eggs with bacon and hash browns.
For a fresh farm-driven breakfast, head a little more west to Farmhouse Tavern, or its offspring Farmer’s Daughter, in the Junction Triangle. Both spots post their brunch menus every weekend on Facebook but expect their impeccably done staples like the Eggs Benny with bacon, kale, or gravlax and the Backyard Burger topped with a perfect sunnyside egg to be there and if you’re lucky, seasonal surprises like the fried green tomatoes that I still think of and salivate about to this day.
Bonus: If there’s one thing that makes the sometimes 2-hour lineup (yes, Torontonians love their weekend brunch) all worth it, is the Super Cheesy Bacon French Toast at School. Imagine gooey cheddar-jack cheese oozing to perfection.
Get Shopping
Born in Vancouver, OAK+FORT is all about classic, clean designs and to top it off, the price point is insanely affordable. Their new Toronto shop on Queen West features slouchy sweaters, well-constructed pants, and generous scarves for men and women in comfy shades of grey, camel, white, and black. These are pieces you’ll want to live in and wear every day.
For a well-curated selection of labels like Acne, Rag & Bone, and Isabel Marant, head over to Ossington’s Jonathan+Olivia, and then go next door and hit my favorite spot in the city for vintage designer pieces, I Miss You.
Take A Break
For a necessary caffeine fix, pop by any one of four Sam James Coffee Bar locations or the charming Louie Craft Coffee in Liberty Village. If coffee isn’t really your thing, an authentic yerba mate at El Almacen always does the trick.
Treat Yourself
If fancy spas and facials are a bit too intimidating but you still want to pamper your skin, a healthy Dermalogica skin treatment at their International Dermal Institute is the way to go. To continue your body prep for the evening ahead, there’s only one place to go to for all your waxing needs, The Ten Spot (several locations in the city).
Pre-dinner Snacks and Cocktails
New joint, Bar Fancy is just the right place to get your snack game on. With crispy fried chicken (served with white sliced bread and a pickle, no less) at $2 and half-price oysters, this happy hour can’t be beat. A few minutes walk away is OddSeoul where you can indulge in Korean-flared bites like bulgogi cheesesteak and spicy Korean chicken wings.
For a pre-dinner cocktail or two, head to the cosy Montauk bar on Dundas West. A gigantic chalkboard wall lists unique creations as well as every classic cocktail you crave of, like delicious Negronis, Manhattans, and French75s.
Time For Dinner
The warm woods of the interior and nightly fun crowd at Bar Isabel on College Street make for an inviting vibe. Mix that with the creative Spanish fare—shared family- style—which includes a perfectly grilled half or full octopus, jamon croquetas, whole sea bream ceviche, and the incredibly delicious cocktails, like the Baraganna with charred pineapple infused 1800 tequila, cointreau, padron pepper and sage simple syrup and lime juice, make it pretty common to want to spend the entire night here.
Another favorite is the newly opened DaiLo. There is so much love and innovation poured into each dish at DaiLo where old-school Chinese staples meet French tradition with a modern Asian twist. It’s an irresistible combination that results in menu highlights like Hakka Brown Wontons with toasted sesame oil, house XO sauce and almond crumble and Ponzu Beef Carpaccio consisting of 90 day Olliffe rib cap, yuzu soy caramel, truffle dwarf peach, pickled chili and fried garlic. While you’re at it, try the inventive cocktails at the LoPan bar downstairs, like the Ansei Treaty with sake, white tea and Dolin dry vermouth.
Grab A Night-cap
Head over to Kensington Market for no-fuss drinks and an intimate front patio at Ronnie’s where hours will, no doubt, fly by in the best way possible as you catch up with friends while the drinks never stop flowing. Then, roll over to the perpetually packed and always fun hidden haven that is Cold Tea for a nightcap.
Late Night Munchies
Chinatown is basically a hop, skip and a jump away from Kensington Market and after the bars have closed, a feeling of “hangry” eventually ensues, making a visit to Rol San for some greasy/amazing dim sum a must. For run and go munchies, join the line-up at Poutini’s for poutine that always hits the spot. You will thank yourself tomorrow.
Read my latest L.A. travel guide on Trivago.
Being an East-coaster I find that there is no better time than the winter to head straight to sunny Los Angeles. The palm trees, the ocean, the endless fun, the delicious eats… it’s easy to call L.A. home, if even for just a few days.
WHAT TO SEE
Soaking up quality comedy is a must. Whether it’s an improv show at Upright Citizens Brigade, which Parks and Rec and SNL alumni Amy Poehler helped co-found, or a stand-up show on Monday nights at The Virgil, which recently brought out Zach Galifianakis and David Cross as special guests, it’s a guaranteed good time that rarely sets you back more than 6 bucks. If you happen to be in town the second Sunday of the month, checking out the Rose Bowl Flea Market is the best eye candy. You will be met with hundreds of rare, beautiful, strange, eclectic furniture and clothing finds. Expect to spend a few hours here rubbing elbows with locals all around looking for a one of a kind steal.
WHAT TO DO
One of my favorite things to do in L.A. is hiking—on the west side go to Paseo Miramar and on the east, Griffith Park—because you get to enjoy the incredible nature while getting a workout in, all for free. If you hike Griffith, try to sneak in a pitstop at the Observatory for sweeping views of the city and while you’re at it, make sure to grab a bite at the adorable Trails Café. A short road trip—about 2 hours—to the geological wonder of the Joshua Tree National Park in the desert is also absolutely worthwhile for the nature-junkie if you have a day to spare.
WHAT TO EAT
With so much to see and do in Los Angeles, you should have a full stomach at all points of the day. I like to start with brunch downtown either at L.A. Chapter at The Ace Hotel or Daily Dose Café which is located in the prettiest alleyway, or if I happen to start my day in the west side, the weekend all you can eat brunch with endless pancakes (including the best fried chicken combo) at A-Frame in Culver City is the go-to. Once you’ve finally digested the epic brunch, you will want to have dinner at another one of Roy Choi’s restaurants at The Line Hotel, either at the gorgeous greenhouse vibe of The Commissary or the hip Korean comfort food of POT, and end with an extra dessert stop at the Café in the hotel lobby, which is currently serving treats like pumpkin whoopie pies and nutella buns. If BYOB is more your style, grab some wine at Erewhon and head to the incredible Escuela in West Hollywood for Mexican or Night and Market—either Weho or Silverlake locations—for the best Northern Thai food in the city (my favorite dish is the moo sadoong “startled pig” spicy salad with grilled pork, basil, lemongrass, garlic and lime, with a side of sticky coconut rice). No night is complete without a taco truck stop—I told you, you would be full at all hours of the day—in the west side, hit up Tacos Leos for the best al pastor’s and in the east, Taco Zone for amazing $2 carne molidas.
WHERE TO SLEEP
In Santa Monica, Shutters is a beautiful beachside staple that’s insanely comfortable and relaxing. For the more action-minded, The Ace Hotel Downtown is a no-brainer. The Ace opened early this year in the historic 1920’s United Artists building and houses the delicious L.A. Chapter restaurant, a coffee bar, and a fun rooftop bar.
LOCAL TIPS:
Los Angeles is vast so the best way to get to know the city is by exploring it neighborhood by neighborhood and you can’t deny the fact that it’s a driving city so keep in mind the following tips: After 6PM Monday to Friday, you can park in any yellow loading-only zone, and Fountain Avenue is the fastest street east to west between Highland and La Cienega.
The holidays can be filled with endless dinners, parties, and get together’s and by the time you have a moment to spare, the last thing you want to do is plan your own dinner, party, or get together. Luckily, Los Angeles is the perfect city to be in to escape cooking for the holidays. At any point during your hectic festive days, you can easily maneuver in these tasty spots for a little culinary, and let’s be honest mental and emotional, break before you have to run to your mother’s annual turkey curry buffet.
To help you out, read my latest dining guide for Trivago.
BREAKFAST:
Morning time is prime “me” time and there’s no better way to start the day off right than a delicious breakfast Downtown at the L.A. Chapter in the chic Ace Hotel. L.A. Chapter is by the same fabulous team behind my favorite brunch spot in Brooklyn, Five Leaves, and serves up incredibly flavorful dishes like the Moroccan egg scramble with housemade Merguez sausage, crushed avocado and a chickpea salad with a lot of kick, and the fluffiest ricotta pancakes, which are served with banana, berries, and a healthy scoop of honeycomb butter.
For a quick guilt-free/waistline friendly option, the rice bowl at Sqirl in Echo Park with Kokohu Rose brown rice, sorrel pesto, preserved Meyer lemon, special Sqirl hot sauce, black radish, French sheep feta and a poached egg will leave you fully energized and focused to conquer the day.
LUNCH:
Nothing beats a midday feast and lunch at Gjelina perfectly serves the purpose with its fresh California cuisine, including their celebrated pizzas, and gorgeous back patio. Delicious menu highlights include the housemade chorizo pizza with tomato, cream, fennel, chili and basil, grilled Kabocha squash with mint pesto and pomegranate, and braised pork meatballs with an addictive red wine tomato sauce. If you find yourself in need of a more central escape, then look no further than Ludo Lefebvre’s Petit Trois in West Hollywood. This intimate bistro (bar seating, no reservations, and credit card only) is an ode to classic French cuisine and bar à la carte dining in Paris. The entire concise menu—which includes one of the best escargot in Los Angeles, classic steak frites, and buttered brioche crumbed chicken leg—is a must-eat so make sure to have at least a couple of pals with you to share with! For a solo adventure, I like to head to Grand Central Market in Downtown L.A. and hop from vendor to vendor. There’s the all day breakfast sandwich at Eggslut that’s so incredible that people wait in line hours for, one of the best burgers and fries you will ever eat at Belcampo Meat Co., Valerie Confection’s flaky fleur de sel caramel croissants, and Better Booch’s inventive kombucha bar— and that’s only a smattering of GCM’s offerings.
DINNER:
Located in Koreatown’s trendy The Line Hotel, The Commissary was my favorite new restaurant of 2014. Roy Choi’s delicious venture is housed in a stunning greenhouse with a loving focus on locally grown vegetables and fruits. Every bite of the roasted carrots, French dip sandwich, sea bass with green peas, perfectly cooked scallops—seriously, I would recommend trying to order every item on the menu—will leave you wanting to come back each and every night. If you’re craving for innovative Italian food, I love Bestia. Located in the Arts District downtown in an industrial warehouse-like space that’s always packed with a fun crowd, Bestia’s menu is equally ambitious as it is creative. With a menu that doesn’t have a single dud, Bestia is ideal for a large group because it means you can order everything for the table—don’t miss out on the housemade salumi board, spicy ‘nduja pizza, and cavatelli alla norcina with black truffles. Lastly, for a cozy, homey vibe head to Son of Gun. You and your guests will feel like you’ve just stepped into an East coast fish house and although Son of a Gun caters mostly to the passionate seafood lover (don’t miss out on the shrimp toast sandwich, lobster roll, and smoked mahi fish dip), the fried chicken sandwich with pickle slaw and rooster hot-sauced aioli will leave your carnivorous side more than satisfied and eager
for a return visit.
Vucciria Market
A few weeks ago, I embarked on an impromptu road trip to Sicily (via Rome) and am still in a arancini haze as I type this back home. If you’ve already done the major Italian big hitters like Florence, Venice, and Rome or want to avoid the crammed summer tourist crowd, I highly recommend a trip to Sicily. The island itself is not very big so if you rent a car and have a week to spare you can experience three stunning seas (Mediterranean, Tyrrhenian and Ionian) by driving the circumference and at your own pace, take in the expansive vistas, numerous UNESCO sights, gorgeous beaches, and insanely fun nightlife… oh, and the food. The stomach-splitting/I probably came home 20 pounds heavier, and would do it all over again, comforting, delicious food.
Here is my Sicilian adventure in photos (basically, how I ate through the island and rolled back home):
After a quick flight from Rome to Palermo, we settled into our apartment near Piazza Paprieto. I loved peeking below the streets on our balcony and seeing the grittiness of the old buildings paired with beautiful flowers and greenery.
The view of the Cathedral from my bedroom.
For our first dinner in Palermo, my friend Nancy and I hit Osteria dei Vespri in Piazza Croce. On top of the fresh red prawn pasta and dessert that we ordered (definitely get the cassatella which is warm silky ricotta in a pastry folded like an envelope), the restaurant treated us to a creamy goat cheese soufflé and a tiny mason jar that contained what appeared to be a shepherd's pie-like concoction to start and then a mandarin cream tart and an assortment of petit fours, all on the house (now, that's Sicilian hospitality) to end our incredible meal.
Just around the corner is Vucciria Market- a chill spot where people come to buy cheap drinks (2 Euros each) and enjoy them on the street while meeting new friends. On any given night, you might run into the most amazing woman who goes around taking party pics. She will also give you the best dance of your life. Here she is in mid-performance.
The next day, we hit up Bar Touring for their well-known arancine bomba. The classic arancini is basically ragu stuffed into a saffron-scented rice bomb that's breaded and fried into carb coma deliciousness. It's called bomba for a reason- it's about the size of my head,
Obviously, I didn't let that stop me from ordering my favorite - a brioche con gelato. Smooth fresh pistachio gelato stuffed into a hot brioche bun.
Fully charged for Day 3, we hit the road early and headed east towards Catania, starting with Cefalu as the first destination.
Cefalu is a gorgeous seaside town and has several kickass beaches on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Unlike Palermo, you'll notice some tourists here and tons of cute souvenir and local food boutiques lining the streets and alleyways.
Back on the road, we continued east and hit Messina and stopped at a super sweet and quaint town called S. Stefano di Camastra that sold the most beautiful handcrafted ceramics. We had planned on just making a quick snack/washroom stop but was captured by the warmth and friendliness of the town that we stayed and met a sweet nonna who owned a gorgeous ceramic shop and took us down the street to show us her amazing workshop where her daughter also works, taking part in the family business.
With a bunch of cannoli's to tide us over, we continued on to Taormina which was, in my opinion, the most beautiful town we saw on our road trip. In Taormina, we got to see a wedding that ended with a burst of rainbow confetti as the sun was beginning to set.
In Taormina, you get to take in one of the three beautiful seas that surround Sicily, the cool Ionian Sea.
By the time we got back on the road and arrived in Catania (if you have a few more hours/days to spare, stop at Acireale for a thermal spa treatment), it was well into the evening so we went straight to L'Ambasciata del Mare (just behind Piazza Duomo). If you're going to have a frutti di mare (fruit of the sea/assorted seafood pasta), this is the place to have it. With the fish market (A' Piscaria Mercato del Pesce) located right beside the restaurant in the early mornings, the seafood is as fresh as you can get it. We also had the calamari and the fried sardine that's breaded and stuffed with a creamy cheese goodness.
At this point it was about midnight and the last thing we wanted to do was hit the road again for another 3-4 hours to get back to our apartment in Palermo, so we signed up for a night at a hostel just a few minutes walk from the piazza called Agora Hostel, complete with a chill bar (below)
The intense A' Piscaria Mercato del Pesce is definitely a sight to see. On top of the wheeling and dealing of the fish, the surrounding area is filled with colourful local produce, meats and cheeses.
The highlight of the trip was the absolutely gorgeous drive from Catania (make sure to check out Mt Etna, an active volcano) to Palazzolo Acreide, a UNESCO town. Filled with vineyards, lemon and olive trees, ancient homes and structures, and countless livestock (in a span of an hour, we saw fields of donkeys, goats, cows, and sheep).
Continuing on our UNESCO drive, we hit the white-washed walls of Ragusa.
As we finally pulled into Siracusa, it was around 9pm so we walked around the old port before stopping at a local roadside restaurant that had a couple of families enjoying fresh seafood and endless wine- the perfect spot for us to refuel before jumping back on the road.
For our final day in Sicily, we hit the road again, but this time headed west towards Sciacca. We were planning on getting some local thermal water and mud bath relief in Sciacca and Trapani but in our vacation mode didn't realize it was a Sunday, which meant all the spas were closed. No tears were shed though as Sciacca has an amazing beach, Sciacca Mare, to unwind on.
For our final feast, we binged at Santandrea in Palermo and made sure to order everything that contained Sicily's best ingredients- aubergine, tomatoes, lemons, sardine, swordfish, and chickpeas. Best dish of the trip was the pasta con le sarde- spaghetti with wild fennel, capers, raisins, and slow-cooked fresh sardines that melt into a ragu, that's then topped with fried breadcrumbs. It's not like any pasta you've ever tasted before.
To end the trip with a bang, we had to live up the Palermo specialty of fun outdoor drinking and hit Chiavettieri to start and then Garraffello (the other part of Vucciria) for a massive dance party. The perfect end to an expected trip to remember.
PREPARING DEEPLY FOR THE HERNAN GIPPONI BRUNCH FEAST
Since the breakfast at HG was so kickass, we ended our week in BA with their massive 8-course brunch (for a deal at 120 pesos or about $25US per person) before embarking on our 17-hour journey back to Toronto.
Get hungry. Here's the full 8-courses in photos:
FLAKY, BUTTERY CROISSANTS OF PERFECTION
EGG BOILED AT 68 DEGREES WITH MUSHROOMS AND HUMMUS
FRIES WITH AIOLI AND RED PEPPER SAUCE
ALL GONE
SOLE TIRADITO, SWEET POTATOES & ORANGE, CILANTRO, RED ONION AND SPICY PEANUTS
MACKEREL CONFIT IN ORANGE OIL, TAPIOCA CHIPS AND MIXED GREENS
BLOODY MARY
BEAN STEW WITH PORK KNUCKLES
BEEF SLIDER WITH QUINOA BUN, PICKLES, CUARTIROLO CHEESE AND BACON
STRAWBERRY ICE, GOAT CHEESE, BALSAMIC REDUCTION AND CARAMEL-COATED SUNFLOWER SEEDS
ALMENDRADO AND DULCE DE LECHE
THE LOVELY LADIES OF HG
Thanks so much to HG and Fierro Hotel for an awesome end to our Buenos Aires getaway. Besos!
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BREAKFAST AT HERNAN GIPPONI INSIDE FIERRO HOTEL
For our last two days in Buenos Aires, we stayed at the uber-sleek Fierro Hotel in Palermo Hollywood. Like the area it’s located in, Fierro is incredibly designed with super spacious rooms, a sauna, heated rooftop pool, and the most comfortable down-pillows (which rates high on my hotel must-haves). The complimentary breakfast is not like your average buffet of congealed eggs and stale danishes. At the Hernan Gipponi restaurant in Fierro, you get a full menu of freshly squeezed orange juice, celery & apple juice shot, tea, coffee, whipped yogurt foam (my new obsession) with frosted flakes, right out of the oven bread & buttery croissants, and eggs in any way you want it with bacon, brie, and hummus on toast. Of course, only I would be blown away by a complimentary breakfast, but seriously- dear hotels everywhere, take notice. A delicious breakfast with fresh ingredients matters.
VIEW OF THE GARDEN FROM INSIDE THE RESTAURANT
THE SUPERIOR ROOM WITH THE BEST PILLOWS
THE GARDEN FROM OUR BALCONY
SAUNA
HEATED ROOFTOP POOL
VIEW OF PALERMO HOLLYWOOD FROM THE ROOF
After settling into Fierro and shopping around the outlet heaven that is Villa Crespo, here's how the rest of the day enfolded through more delicious food and good company:
THE INTERIOR OF LA ESPERANZA DE LOS ASCURRA
PATATAS BRAVAS, GARLIC SHRIMP, AND FRIED CALAMARI
PATATAS BRAVAS
SERRANO JAMON AND ANCHOVIES
THE INCREDIBLE FOOD AT AMAZING PRICES STREAK CONTINUES AT ITALIAN JOINT, IL BALLO DEL MATTONE
HOMEMADE PASTA + BUENA ONDE = GOOD TIMES
HOW CAN YOU NOT LOVE A PLACE THAT GIVES YOU FREE BREAD AND PATE TO START?!
AT CAFF IN ABASTO FOR THE LA YEGROS ALBUM RELEASE. PHOTOS BY MALEN URZI.
DANCE PARTY
AWESOME COSTUMES
OH LOOK, ANOTHER CAT... POST-SHOW DRINKS AT LA CASONA DE HUMAHUACA.
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