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Read my latest on Istria, Croatia on W Dish.
2300 hours of sunshine a year, 3000 years of fascinating history, and a heart-shaped peninsula that spans 3600-sq-km. All the numbers in Istria, Croatia add up to an unforgettable summer destination. This spectacular part of northern Croatia is only 80km wide and 95km north to south, meaning you can experience the untouched countryside AND the Adriatic coastal paradise all in the same day.
I present to you, the 10 reasons why you should really go to Istria this summer:
1. The Oozing Charm
You can’t walk the shiny cobblestone streets of Istria without a giant smile on your face. If you’re a sucker for all things cute overload, do not miss a visit to Grožnjan and Rovinj. The latter enchants with intimate alleyways and courtyards guarded by friendly cats full of swagger, and sun-bleached apartments with freshly lined laundry. Rovinj’s coastal side is a prime go-to for the most stunning sunset views of the Adriatic. Meanwhile, Grožnjan is proudly referred to as the City of Artists, thanks in huge part to the abundance of independent galleries and shops as well as artists who summer here—Marina Abramović had an apartment in Grožnjan for years—and open their studios to showcase special pieces of work for sale and display. I couldn’t get over the fairytale vibe that the medieval buildings in Grožnjan give off—it feels like you’ve gone back in time and stepped into a storybook.
2. Dramatic Rich History
Istria’s civilization dates back to at least the Bronze Age and for most of its rocky lifespan, Istria has been under the rule of everyone from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarians. Up until 1947, the area was controlled by Italy, so it’s not rare that a walk down one block, you’ll pass by a Venetian square and some ancient Roman columns,and maybe an old Slavic church in between too. The mix of influences can be dizzying but completely enthralling. Don’t miss these deep historic traces in the beautiful streets and palazzos of Novigrad-Cittanova and Istria’s largest city, Pula, where the famous amphitheatre is located.
3. The Clearest, Bluest Sea, You Ever Did See
It’s no wonder the coast of Istria’s adoring nickname is “Blue Istria” as it’s surrounded by the gorgeously clean and clear Adriatic Sea. For sun and sea lovers, it’s easy to spend your entire vacation sailing from island to island and exploring all the breathtaking beaches. On the most southern tip of the peninsula, you’ll find a protected park called Cape Kamenjak where there’s sandy beaches, high cliffs for deep sea-diving, and flat giant rocks along the coast ideal for sunbathing, which are all near the cape’s Safari bar—a perfect spot for a post-sunning drink.
4. Taste the Sea
When walking along the quaint streets of the many coastal towns in Istria, you’ll see and smell all the yummy creatures of the sea. In a five minute span, I went from gazing at an enormous group of sea urchin by the Rovinj harbor to passing old town restaurants grilling octopus and shrimps, before arriving at the seaside restaurant, Puntulina where I devoured sardines and anchovies freshly pickled in lemon juice and olive oil (so fresh, they melt in your mouth!) while watching the bright orange sunset over the Adriatic.
5. Truffles! Truffles! Truffles!
The truffle reigns supreme in Croatia, especially in Istria where the coveted delicacy is unearthed. Eat it in honey, pasta, sausage, cheese… you name it, put truffles on it! Every year, Istria throws a huge Truffle Days festival where the special tuber is celebrated and thousands of eggs (the number is equivalent to the year, so this year there will be 2015 eggs) scrambled and cooked with 10kg of truffle goodness. This year the festival will be held November 7-8 in Buzet.
6. A Hop, Skip, and a Jump Away from Italy
Just across the water is Italy, making Istria a super easy inclusion into a grander Euro adventure. The Istrian towns of Umag, Novigrad, Buje, Grožnjan, and Poreč are less than an hour drive from Trieste, and Rovinj is just a two-hour boat ride from Venice. Since the Italians ruled Istria for decades, the Italian influence is undeniable—everyone speaks Italian and all the street signs are written in both Croatian and Italian. You can actually be sipping a cocktail, looking at Venice across the Adriatic while sitting at a rooftop bar in Savudrija. So amazing.
7. Less Tourists
The difference between Venice and Istria, though? Istria is still a bit of a hidden gem, so expect cheaper prices, much cleaner streets (the roads actually sparkle!), less noise, and way less tourists. Even in mid-August, you can still get away from intense crowds in the interior, “Green Istria,” where you can relish in the unspoiled countryside of hilltop towns, lush untouched parks and valleys, and vibrant vineyards.
8. Wine That Flows Like Water
One word: Malvasia. When it comes to a nice summer white, the fresh and crisp Istrian Malvasia is a no-brainer and my new favorite go-to. Everyone makes wine in Istria so expect generous offerings wherever you go. I think after a week in Istria, I roughly drank about 65 different types of Malvasia, Teran and Muskat wines, and I’m a lightweight!
9. Everything is Local
You can live like a local by taking part in activities with vineyards and farms, like harvesting grapes, cultivating olive groves, truffle hunting, and foraging wild asparagus. Almost all ingredients used at the restaurants and konobas (authentic rustic taverns) are grown right in the backyard, so you can actually taste the Mediterranean sun that nourishes the Istrian soil. I’m a sucker for bringing back local products—some favorites were the local sage honey and dried lavender from Histria Aromatica, fig and cacao jam from Zigante, and Ipša olive oil—to bring back the experience and enjoy back home.
10. Everyone is Family
Everyone is treated like family in Istria. At every restaurant and vineyard I visited, I noticed that they were all run by family members—young sons and daughters who worked the front of house, the tasting rooms and the fields, while the parents cooked in the kitchen or led the unique property tours—and so, they welcome you in as one of their own. That kind of hospitality is beyond heartwarming and stays with you for a lifetime.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
HOW TO TREAT YOURSELF IN ISTRIA
Check out my latest piece on Istria on Travel & Style.
Istria. Some have touted this vast and magical land of endless rolling green hills and sparkling clear waters as the Tuscany of Croatia because of the area’s renowned olive oil, truffles, and wine, and incredibly short two and a half hour drive from Venice, or just two hours if you’re a local. Regardless of its Tuscan comparisons, there is one thing for certain about Istria—it is a prime destination to spoil yourself rotten without breaking the bank (forget the Euro, the Croatian Kuna is the currency of choice, so revel in dividing all the prices by 5.5!). Whether you dedicate your entire vacation to Croatia or include it as a stop in a grand European hop, take the time to experience these 5 things you must do to treat yourself in Istria:
1. Tap into your inner architecture nerd and check-in to stylish luxury
The Hotel Lone is a gorgeous 5-star design hotel right by the protected Zlatni Rt forest just ten minutes from Rovinj’s charming and romantic city centre. Hotel Lone’s architecture is designed by 3LHD with furniture by Numen/For Use. The combination of fascinating design meets spatial functionality extends to its 12 suites and 236 boutique rooms, which are all uniquely designed and include a spacious balcony. I stayed in one of the “Jazz Rooms” that overlooks onto an infinity pool view of Zlatni Rt park and Mulini beach. What’s that saying again, once you go infinity pool view, you never go back? Included in the accommodations is the use of the Wellness & Spa zone—Finnish, Aroma, and Turkish saunas, indoor heated pool with hydro massage, gym, and the Vitality health bar.
2. Lose hours by the Adriatic Sea
Every pit stop along the coast that was made during my adventure in Istria, I was completely awestruck but the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic Sea. There’s something about being able to see right to the bottom of the sea that is so incredibly captivating. After walking along the seaside path (lungomare) in Rovinj, or nearby Pula, Poreč and Umag, you can easily arrange boat tours directly at the local ports, or by asking the reception at your hotel in advance. Make sure to include a stop at the stunning National Park in Brijuni Islands. The Brijuni Islands can be reached by boat departing daily from the Pula waterfront or from the nearby fishing village of Fazana. As the only national park in Istria, Brijuni and its 14 islands span an area of 736 square hectares covered in rare and rich flora, making Brijuni one the most beautiful archipelagos in the Mediterranean. Once on dry land, the aquatic affair continues on to the local cuisine with the freshest seafood—all the shrimp, octopus, anchovies, sardines, sea urchin, and fish you could dream of.
3. Indulge in Truffles at Every Meal
The truffle is of huge pride in Croatia—the largest white truffle in the Guinness Book of Records was found in Buzet, Istria by Zigante Tartufi—and is abundantly offered and served in restaurants and konobas (taverns) across the country. Known to be quite the aphrodisiac, the Istrian truffle was considered a special culinary delight as early as Roman times. There is no better way to spoil your taste buds than having all that precious truffle goodness shaved onto every dish. From decadent soft scrambled eggs, fuzi pasta in the local sugo white sauce, ice cream (YES, ice cream), salumi, soft and hard cheeses, and various pâtés, truffles can be incorporated into any dish and pleasantly devoured meal after meal.
4. Taste all of the wines
For centuries, Istrians have been historically tied to its distinctive grapes and quality winemaking. You won’t find a single restaurant that doesn’t boast its excellent wine selection while lovingly encouraging you to try all their Malvasia (fresh and crisp white), Teran (rich and robust red with slightly higher acidity), Refosk (quite strong and tannic with a deep plum color) and Muscat (dry and sweet desert-like). To really get the full experience and deep histories of the wines in Istria, a visit (or two, or three) to a winery such as the stunning vineyards and cellars of Kozlovic, one of the oldest winemaking families in Istria and winners of the Royal Wine and International Wine challenges, or Degrassi where just a couple of hundred meters from the cellar stands the oldest lighthouse on the entire Adriatic, marking the most western point of Croatia. After days of indulging close to 60 different wines in Istria, my favorite was a glass of Uroboros Malvasia at Trapan, which was incredibly fresh, yet had a delicious woodsy aftertaste, like a warm campfire. A truly unique and delicious white.
5. Take a spa break
Nothing beats a rejuvenating and relaxing spa break—you are on vacation after all! If there’s one spa stop you make in Istria, make it the Energy Clinic’s Carolea Spa at the Kempinski Hotel Adriatic. Pampering bods for more than 15 years, the Carolea Spa includes treatments like the popular Energy Clinic Signature Massage, 30 minute Anti-Stress Body Scrub, or my personal favorite, the Royal Hammam in the all-marble Hammam suite, which combines both massage and thorough body scrub-down with the traditional bathing rituals from Turkey and the Middle East. The Hammam’s MO is to cleanse, relax, and purify the body and skin. In true Treat Yourself form, the Royal Hammam finishes with a serving of Champagne and fresh fruit at the end of the session in the relaxation area equipped with waterbeds and heated loungers. To take advantage of the amenities, I’d recommend a 15-20 minute session in the dry saunas prior to the Hammam—either the Bio or Finnish sauna because their temperatures of 75C to 90C will give your body a really nice warm-up, and then a try at the ice cabin or Roman plunge pools post-Hammam relaxation. I know, I said that you probably won’t break your bank treating yourself in Istria but maybe you kinda want to? In that case, I’d add an Esensa Mediterana Golden Life facial, a lifting facial that includes 24-carat gold leaves (!) that improve your skin’s tone and glow by slowing down cell oxidation.
MORE ON ISTRIA:
10 REASONS TO VISIT ISTRIA
TRUFFLE HUNTING IN ISTRIA
WHERE TO WINE + DINE IN ISTRIA
KITTY SECURITY AT LENTAS MARAVILLAS
By the time we pulled into the historic quarter in Colonia del Sacramento (a UNESCO world heritage site) it was almost 5pm, so we had about an hour to look around and take a leap back in time (P.S. you cannot take a bad vintage-inspired photo here) before witnessing the gorgeous sunset over the Rio de la Plata at the insanely delicious teahouse/cafe, Lentas Maravillas. If you get the chance to visit Colonia, save at least a few hours to chill at Lentas Maravillas (Santa Rita 61) and enjoy the amazing view of the river and fantastic selection of books and magazines.
Here’s Part 2 of our Uruguayan Break in pictures:
WALKING AROUND THE COBBLESTONE STREETS INCLUDING THE PRETTY CALLE DE LOS SUSPIROS
ARTE MURAL TASCA DE S MIGUEL
THE LITTLE DOOR THROUGH BUEN SUSPIRO (PITSTOP FOR CHEESE, WINE, AND DULCE DE LECHE)
CALLE DE SAN FRANCISCO AT SUNSET
FARO (RESTORED 19TH CENTURY LIGHTHOUSE) BY THE RUINS OF CONVENTO DE SAN FRANCISCO
THE CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE LIGHTHOUSE
MADE IT TO THE TOP, IN ALL MY GLORY
GORGEOUS SUNSET OF THE RIO DE LA PLATA
IF THE SNAILS DON'T CATCH YOUR EYE...
THE AMAZING VIEW OF THE SUNSET OVER RIO DE LA PLATA FROM INSIDE
LENTAS MARAVILLAS OWNER/COOK/BAKER/ALL-AROUND BADASS, MAGGIE
ALWAYS GETTING MY HOT CHOC FILL WHENEVER I CAN
MADE WITH LOVE: CHICKEN CURRY ON THE RIGHT, SMOKED SALMON ON THE LEFT
LENTAS MARAVILLAS IS ACTUALLY MAGGIE'S HOME THAT SHE OPENS UP TO LUCKY PEEPS LIKE ME
THANKS SO MUCH TO MAGGIE FOR SHARING HER LOVELY HOME AND SENDING ME BACK TO B.A., FAT, FULL, AND HAPPY! XO
For more information:
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THE RESIDENT SHEEP AT FINCA PIEDRA
I wanted to make the most of our week in South America, so I booked a day-getaway to Uruguay (via an hour Buquebus ferry ride from Buenos Aires to Colonia) with The Wine Experience to a true estancia in the countryside of San Jose, called Finca Piedra. Dang, do I love my wine but in no way am I an aficionado in that realm, so knowing that Uruguay is busting through as the next big wine destination, I was stoked to find out (i.e. indulge in) what makes the wine here so special through a rad wine pro. Cue: Ryan Hamilton of The Wine Experience. This dude knows his vino and he’s been traveling in all parts of the world working the wine thing for years, so his stories are both crazy/hilarious and much more entertaining than some old stuck-up sommelier.
Ryan picked us up at the port in Colonia and we began our Countryside Adventure to the incredible Finca Piedra. Driving to San Jose, you are hit with a calmness from the stunning nature (the palm trees are shorter and much fuller than the ones you see in California) to the expansive fields filled with more cows, sheep, and horses you could ever imagine. Coming from a buzzing, smoggy city, of course, I’m highly amused by this and think it’s the best thing ever.
As Ryan pulled into Finca Piedra, I was instantly taken aback by the stunning 1000 acres of vineyard and farm. Jason, who runs the estancia with his wife, welcomed us with big hugs and proudly showed us around the beautiful space.
Here’s how the Countryside Adventure at Finca Piedra went down:
INSIDE THE FINCA PIEDRA RESTAURANT...
INFINITY POOL (THERE'S ALSO TENNIS, VOLLEYBALL, FISHING, AND GOLF IF YOU CAN'T SWIM LIKE ME).
SUPER CUTE ANIMAL FARM...
WEEK OLD BABY RABBIT.
ENRICO, THE RESIDENT GAUCHO COOKING UP A URUGUAYAN BBQ (MORE MEAT!).
KEEP ON, KEEP ON EATING. SNACKS FOR THE WINE-TASTING.
JASON PRESENTS THE FIRST WINE...
A VIOGNIER... A FRESH PARTY WHITE.
RYAN AND JASON GIVE ME THE URUGUAYAN WINE 101.
THE LOCAL FAVE: TANNAT (A BOLD RED).
RYAN SCHOOLING ME ON WINE "LEGS" (I.E. ACIDITY). THE LONGER THE LEGS THE MORE ACIDITY. AIN'T THAT THE TRUTH.
BBQ OF SOUTH AFRICAN AND BLOOD SAUSAGES, CHICKEN, STEAK, AND RIBS WITH IN-HOUSE PRODUCED VEGGIES.
FLAN WITH MORE CREAMY, STICKY DULCE DE LECHE. HAVE YET TO HAVE A SINGLE MEAL WITHOUT IT.
HOW REGAL IS MY HORSE FOR THE NEXT HOUR?
SOMEONE LOVES MY LEATHER BOOTS.
RIDING THROUGH 1000 ACRES OF GORGEOUS VINEYARD AND FARMLAND...
THE VINEYARDS ARE SLEEPING AROUND NOW, WITH A BIG GROWTH IN SEPT/OCT, HARVEST IN FEB/MAR.
My horseback riding session wrapped up at around 3pm and we made our heartfelt goodbyes to Finca Piedra (not before buying up some bottles of Tannat and olive oil). Ryan drove us back into Colonia del Sacramento where we could conquer the UNESCO quarter and watch the much talked about sunset over the Río de la Plata.
Thanks so much to The Wine Experience for arranging the perfect Uruguayan introduction at Finca Piedra xx
If you're lucky and have a few more days in Uruguay, you can actually stay in Finca Piedra and take in the full agri/ecoturismo experience. For more information:
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