A day in London...
PJ Harvey performing at the NME Awards
Keex and Aimee
NME Awards catering
Keex and Jonny
Crystal Castles
Noel Fielding
Burgers at Barden's
While driving to the airport, we made a pitstop at the famed Blue Lagoon. The drive to the Blue Lagoon hot springs is breathtaking- enormous scatterings of lava beautifully spread out on the landscape.
For all you fellow germ-phobes out there, the water in the lagoon renews itself every 40 hours, so don't sweat it. We didn’t have time for the spa services but just being in the water is a relaxing experience in itself and there’s mud stations around the lagoon where you can slather yourself in the soothing silica mud (the lagoon is naturally powered by geothermal energy, resulting in warm seawater that contains a variety of healing minerals, silica and algae).
BATHING IN BETWEEN TWO CONTINENTS
Nerd-fact: the Asian and American tectonic plates meet at the Blue Lagoon, which means when you’re in the water you’re actually bathing between two continents. Pretty dope.
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When I announced that Iceland would be the next destination for VS., every one I knew who'd traveled there before, said I had to go to Icelandic Fish & Chips. So as soon as I arrived into Reykjavík, I headed straight over. It's located right by the water, the fish is caught every morning, and it's prepared organically. I really dug the homey vibe and it is truly the freshest fish & chips I've ever had in my life. I recommend starting with the mango salad and then going for the ling or cod and rosemary chips with a sampler plate of all the dipping sauces.
Kaffi Solon is right by the best shopping strip in Reykjavík, so after you're done buying a Hand Knitting Association sweater and some rare vintage finds, I recommend a visit here for some culinary refuelage. I found this sleek space through Conde Nast Traveler and it's the perfect spot to hit if you're looking for a break from traditional Icelandic fare- Kaffi has everything from Indian to Thai to Italian. Whatever you order, get a side of the spelt bread (they make it with molasses to give it a sweet taste and chewy flavor). It will be one of the best carb gifts you could ever give yourself.
Seafood chowder with spelt bread
Tandoori spiced chicken tenders in Tikka Marsala sauce, with wok-fried vegetable, rice and fresh salad
Hot chocolate for dessert
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I can't wait to come back to Reykjavík if only to eat at the Icelandic Bar again. Expect traditional Icelandic dishes with a modern twist and a very lax atmosphere with an incredibly warm and intimate decor. Icelandic Bar is owned and run by three young friends and I loved that they were playing new music from Icelandic bands-- some of whom I recognized from the Aldrei festival. If you go, you must order the insanely addictive rhubarb mojito.
Here's a sample of our menu:
Smoked arctic char from Mývatn, smoked eel, parsnip purée, lumpfish roes with lemon, angelica cracker, dill
Smoked lamb carpaccio with honey, beet root jam, nut crumble, horseradish, melon
White cabbage, fennel
Smoked minke whale, beet root jam, angelica cracker
Smoked puffin, rye bread crumble, blueberry compot, horseradish in a jar
Seared minke whale, brennivín glaze, glazed root vegetables, potato purée
Slow cooked lamb shank in own broth, dill, potato purée
Salted cod, smoked tomato jam, bacon, rye bread crumble, tomato confit
IN CASE YOU WERE WONDERING WHAT A PUFFIN IS :(
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For our final night, we splurged at Perlan- a striking building with a restaurant on the top floor that slowly rotates every two hours for a full pan panoramic view of Reykjavik. This is the place to go if you're looking to treat yourself to dishes that dreams are made of, paired with equally exceptional service. The stand-out dishes for me was the cream of lobster soup and the juicy scallops. If you want to feel like royalty for a night, hit Perlan.
Here's a small sample from our menu at Perlan:
Amuse bouche goose carpaccio
Smoked trout "sous vide" with radishes wakame salad and wasabi ice-cream
Grilled fillet of lamb with green peas, root vegetables, fondant potato and rosemary sauce
Garlic roasted langustine with artichoke purré and curry sorbet
Duck with blood orange, spinach, seleriac, glaced potato and duck sauce
Scallops with carrots purée, cauliflower and pepper-chilly sauce
Cream of lobster with grilled lobster tails
The first band I met up with at Aldrei fór ég suður was super adorable electronic duo, Yoda Remote. Emil and Bragi are still in their teens but they were recently signed to local label, TomTom records and have a defined sound that take others years to find. It was refreshing to see them amongst the mostly indie rock line-up.
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Aldrei fór ég suður (I Never Went South) Music Festival in Ísafjörður, Iceland is a loving ‘fuck you’ to Reykjavik in that these West Fjords (population 4000) has all the talent, activities, and shenanigans that any big city contains but with huge heart and sense of community. Here’s a great write-up about the festival by Inspired by Iceland:
Aldrei fór ég suður brings together local bands with the biggest names on the Icelandic music scene. Since its inception in 2004 the event has been run on a volunteer basis by Ísafjörður residents. Entrance to all events is free, and this year we are adding a LIVE ONLINE STREAM on www.inspiredbyiceland.com to give music fans the world over a chance to take part. Lonely Planet named Aldrei fór ég suður as one of the three most interesting happenings around the world in April in its Best of Travel 2011 round up.
If you ever plan to make your way to Iceland, I totally recommend a trip to Ísafjörður’s Aldrei fór ég suður Music Festival. You will no doubt be awestruck by the beauty of the fjords that surround your every move and the incredible warmth of its residents.
WELCOME DINNER DONE UP OLD SCHOOL
WELCOME DINNER WITH THE MAYOR
SMOKED MUSSELS
ME AND MY MTV CAMERA-BABES (WITH 66°NORTH HATS GIVEN TO US BY THE MAYOR)
WHEN IN THE WEST FJORDS, STRIKE A POSE
INSIDE THE VENUE
OUTSIDE THE VENUE
Big thanks to Michael from Icelandair and Kamilla from Iceland Music Export for making this trip happen. Looking forward to coming back to Iceland in October for Airwaves! x
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Prinspolo, the alter ego of Svavar Pétur Eysteinsson, may sound familiar. Yes, the name is inspired by the Polish chocolate bar, Prince Polo (which I love) and when I heard that Svavar's Prins is equally as food-obsessed as me, I knew I had to meet up with him. After watching the band perform at Aldrei, we made a mad dash to a friend's house for a surprise birthday performance... and of course, talked food and music afterwards.
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The one band that I was familiar with, prior to leaving for Iceland, on the Aldrei line-up was FM Belfast, whom I've loved for years. I dare you to listen to "Underwear" and not have it stuck in your head (in a good way) all day. Like most Icelandic acts, members of FM Belfast are also in many other bands (you may remember seeing Loa in the Prins Polo pictures). I had a blast chatting with FM Belfast, as you can see in the photos below:
Their high-energy performance at Aldrei was a definite highlight... and not just because everyone stripped down to their underwear.
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While looking through the line-up of acts at Aldrei, it's hard not to stop and listen to Lazyblood. With a background in dance and theatre production, Erna Ómarsdóttir and Valdimar Jóhannsson's combination of opera and death metal is incredibly captivating. I met up with the dynamic duo at Valdimar's mother's home in Ísafjörður (which also happens to be the same house that the President of Iceland was born in).
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On our final day at Aldrei in Ísafjörður, we had a huge Easter sunday dinner with all the bands who performed at the festival. I'm a huge sap so you know I totally melted at the heartwarming vibe. Before dinner, I chatted with one of the founders, fellow Icelandic musician, Mugison. The idea for Aldrei fór ég suður (I never went south) started over a pint of beer between Mugison and his father, who were both born in Ísafjörður. Their passion to show off Iceland's vibrant music scene paralleled with Ísafjörður’s offbeat location and relaxed atmosphere is a combination for festival-success.
TALKING TO MUGISON WITH HIS WIFE LOOKING OVER. VERY CUTE.
MUGISON'S DAD COOKING EASTER DINNER
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And who says I don't do sports? Well, this is probably why:
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I had such an amazing time in Copenhagen that there’s still a few more wicked places that I want to include in here should you ever venture over:
Vesterbrogade 40
1620 København
I know it seems a bit ridiculous that I would find my favourite Vietnamese restaurant in Copenhagen of all places, but it’s true. Trust, LêLê’s will be one of the freshest, most richly flavourful Vietnamese meals you’ll have in your lifetime. I recommend the “Ca chien” which is Golden Dorado with tamarind, ginger & mint sauce served with banana blossom salad with fried shiitake mushroom & jasmine rice, and the “Pho bò” beef noodle soup - based on beef, vegetables and spices, and served with slices of beef, herbs and rice noodles.
Slagterboderne 1
1716 København
I went to Paté Paté for dinner before doing our night jaunt in the meatpacking district. I really dug the hearty menu of slow-cooked comfort food influenced by French, Moroccan and Spanish cuisine. My favourite item of the night was the chickpea chorizo soup.
Krystalgade 4
1172 København
I first discovered Time’s Up through their webshop where I previously ordered an oversized vintage Christian Dior shirt (same one I'm wearing in the Jolene pic below). When I finally visited the shop, I actually met the owner who’s super rad and told me that he’s opening a new location in New York very soon. Time’s Up has an impeccable selection of unique designs from around the world.
Flaesketorvet 94
1711 København
So Jolene used to be an old slaughterhouse and is located in (surprise!) the meatpacking district. We hit Jolene on our last night in Copenhagen and I was really won over by the intimate and non-pretentious atmosphere. Expect a tiny hot and sweaty dance floor, but at the same time, a very chill vibe.
With Vanessa Larkey, our camera gal
Driving through West Lake |