When I travel, I love to sneak in moments to capture portraits and candids of local women, and during my last pilgrimage to Spain, Flare gave me the opportunity to take it one step further and delve into the beauty practices of Andalucían women. Here's the feature in full (below) where I learn that for the women of Andalucía, beauty runs deeper than a secret anti-wrinkle cream but the innate attitude and charm of "duende." But, what's duende? Read the piece!
Taking a break in between interviewing the badass women of Andalucía.
As I move through my 30s, I’ve become obsessed with living effortlessly. I’ve tried to let go of rigid expectations and minimize my wardrobe and make-up routine, but ironically, this process takes effort and there’s still some work to do. For inspiration, I think about my girlfriends in Spain who always seem to ooze effortlessness so… well, effortlessly. They sit confidently in their slouchy linens, tousled hair, and glowy complexions sans makeup— it’s an alluring energy that can only be described as what the Spanish call duende, a natural charm that yields great power and is often connected to the passionate emotions of flamenco. To get in touch with my own duende, I embarked on a trip through the birthplace of flamenco, Southern Spain’s sun-drenched region of Andalucía.
Eat, Slather, Love
My journey starts in the heart of the Costa del Sol, Màlaga, where I’m quickly schooled by locals on the most vital ingredient to health, diet and beauty here: olive oil. Road tripping through Andalucía, with pit stops in Granada, Úbeda and Córdoba, bottles of locally produced, heart-healthy extra virgin olive oils ranging in degrees of spiciness and sweetness line every restaurant table. It’s hard not to get swept up into the rhythm of the passing of the EVOO—bottles clink as one is carefully picked up, then lovingly drizzled over carefully cooked dishes, before being handed over to the next hungry guest to continue. It’s an infectious dance that’s convinced me that food tastes so much better now because of it. The locals encourage me to drench my bread in it, to drizzle it over fresh sea-to-table dishes like the delicate, almost too-beautiful-to-eat shrimp and sea bass carpaccio at Barceló La Bobadilla.
Olive oil is more than just a culinary staple here. Nourishing olive oil-based shampoos and conditioners, soaps and body lotions can be found everywhere, from the corner grocery store to independent boutiques. My favorite: the impeccably curated shop in Baeza, La Casa Del Aceite, AKA The House of Oil.
For the purists though, I learn that olive oil’s intense hydration benefits are maximized by applying it straight from the bottle onto hands, nails and hair. “My mother taught me that olive oil can be used as a serum to remove and prevent split ends, leaving hair soft and shiny,” my friend Marta tells me, sharing secrets passed from generation to generation in her family.
Hail To The Hammam
Another ode to traditional beauty is the hammam, or public baths, which were introduced by the Moors when they ruled parts of the region from the early 8th to late 15th centuries. At Hammam Al-Andalús in Màlaga, an enormous space that perfectly replicates the grandeur of the traditional hammams from centuries ago, I’m met with soothing steam and the calming aromas of argan, jasmine and amber. Unlike typical hotel spas that offer hammam treatments in a single room, the Al-Andalús contains several separate areas for bathing, plunging and steaming at various temperatures as well as quiet tea rooms to unwind in and treatment floors for massages. "When you go to a hammam, it feels like Andalucia a thousand years ago - you feel the interior life and as you care for your body and relax at a hammam, you can forget everything," says Nani Estepa López, a vivacious and incredibly knowledgeable local guide in Córdoba. To ease my mind into effortless beauty, I start with a long soak in the bougie-tiled warm bath before moving to the hot marble room to relax my muscles, ending with a quick plunge in the cold bath that’s meant to boost my metabolism and immunity. I leave the hammam feeling totally de-stressed and my skin softer and brighter.
Channel Your Inner Carmen
You can’t step foot into Southern Spain without seeing and feeling the influence of Carmen, the iconic character of Seville, and the same can be said to tracing the root of duende – the reference to Carmen abounds. As seen in the opera as well as the adaptations to flamenco, Carmen overwhelmingly oozes charm, sexuality and independence. She has the innate ability to bring men to their knees with her sensual singing, but refuses José’s courtship and aggressive pleas, choosing to fight for her freedom to the death instead. Not only was she a feminist trying to defy traditional gender roles, she lived her life according to her own rules with a true IDAF attitude, and as Nani confesses, "Our attitude is reflected in our faces."
Salute the Sun
As I ask women all across Andalucía about how to live with true duende, they respond with the same answer: the sun. “It’s our weather. The sun makes you happy and smile often,” says my former roommate Sandra. Marta couldn’t agree more: “Beauty comes from the inside, and it's what makes you shine on the outside. There is so much good food, culture, beautiful beaches and constant sun here that it's easy to be happy. It's a matter of your attitude.”
It makes sense: Living with duende comes naturally in Andalucia’s perma-vacay climate. After all, port cities like Màlaga boast a stunning 295 sunny, rain-free days a year. And while I can’t bring all that Spanish sun back home with me, I’ll happily take scheduling trips to Spain over booking visits to the Botox clinic any day.
Here are some of my favorite photos that I got to capture of women around the Andalucía region:
Stay
AC Hotel Màlaga Palacio is centrally located near the Centre Pompidou Màlaga and has stunning views of the city from their rooftop bar and restaurant.
Hotel Nueve Leyendas in Úbeda is a little off the beaten track, and well worth a visit, with nine themed rooms decorated to include influential characters and events from Úbedan history.
Shop
El Espejo Te Dice Guapa (which translates to “The Mirror Says You’re Pretty”) in Córdoba is a fun boutique that sells a mix of colorful vintage and independent designers.
La Casa Del Aceite in Baeza is an extensive one-stop shop for all the olive oil products you could ever want for every culinary and beauty need.
Calle Marques De Larios in Màlaga is a shopping strip with must-try Spanish labels like Purification Garcia and Adolfo Dominiguez.
Eat
El Pimpi in Màlaga is a quality tapas restaurant, with a gorgeous patio overlooking the Alcazaba, frequented by well-known locals, like the Picasso family, Carmen Thyssen and Antonio Banderas.
Cantina La Estaciòn in Úbeda serves incredibly tasty and innovative dishes in a space uniquely designed as the interior of a vintage train.
Restaurant Mirador de Morayma in Granada is an unforgettable experience—as long as you book the right table. Make sure to reserve the balcony table (there’s only one!) that looks over the Alhambra for a magical sunset dinner.
Restaurante del Hotel Palacio is located in the only 5-star hotel in the Jaén province so expect classic farm and sea-to-table dishes carefully prepared with lots of attention to detail and taste.
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